Check this out!! A give-away!/sorry, it's now over

Stephanie, over at this blog is giving away this cute apron that she made herself. Go check out her blog.

Ashlea Scarf

This is a very easy scarf pattern. Although the lacy stitch pattern looks a little complicated, it uses only chains, and single and double crochet stitches. Once you establish the pattern, it is only a simple one row repeat, which is easy to memorize. It is simple to make this design wider or narrower, and I think it would make a pretty shawl also.



Notes:

I used WW weight yarn and a K hook. The stitch pattern is quite dense in places, so it drapes better if you use a hook that seems a little large for the yarn. I crochet loosely.

This pattern uses a stitch multiple of 4 plus 1. Then you add 3 more to your beginning chain for the turning chain. (which in this case means that your beginning chain has to be a multiple of 4.) This means that you could make a narrower scarf by subtracting 4 stitches or make a wider scarf or a shawl, by adding stitches in multiples of 4.

My scarf turned out to be 7 inches wide. If I made it again, I might make it a little narrower, but this scarf is going to a "warm the homeless project" that was organized by one of my co-workers so the width will be welcome for warmth.

Stitches used:
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
sc: single crochet

Special stitches:
cluster: 1 dc and 1 sc both in same chain or stitch
v stitch: 1 dc, ch1, 1 dc all done in the same chain or stitch

V stitch in v stitch means that you make a v stitch in the chain 1 space of the v stitch in the previous row.

The chain 3 that starts each row is there to give the scalloped effect along the edge of the scarf and is not used as a working stitch. Just ignore it when you get to the end of the row. The last cluster is worked into the last actual stitch of the row, not the turning chain.

The Pattern:

Chain 20. Remember to use a hook that is a couple of sizes larger than the yarn calls for, so that your scarf will drape nicely.

Row 1: Make cluster into the 4th ch from the hook), **skip a ch, v stitch in the next ch, skip a chain, cluster into the next ch**, repeat from ** to **. You should end with a cluster in the last chain. Ch 3, turn

Row 2: Skip the first sc, make a cluster in the next st, (which is the dc of the cluster below),
**v stitch into the v stitch below, cluster into the DC of the cluster below**, repeat from ** to **, ending with a cluster in the last DC of the last cluster. Do not stitch into the ch 3 turning chain.
ch 3, turn.

Repeat row 2 until your scarf is as long as you want it to be.

The pattern consists of clusters worked in the DC of the clusters in the row beneath alternating with v stitches worked in the chain 1 space of the v stitch in the previous row.

If you don't want the scalloped edge, using a ch 2 as a turning chain will make the edge straighter. If you choose this option, you would need to subtract one chain from the beginning chain.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

It's winter!

Up until yesterday we had been enjoying unseasonably warm weather for this time of year. In fact our grass was still green and we've only had a few frosty mornings.
This morning we awoke to around 10 inches of snow on the ground, and it has been snowing most of the day. No wonder my snowman looks so happy. He's sitting on the front porch on a bench that my dad made me a few years ago.
I'm not overly fond of snow, but it is very pretty. It's a perfect day to sit by the fire and read a good book. (which is exactly what I'm going to do after this!)

Christmas Coasters

I call these Christmas coasters because I used variegated yarn in red, white and green, but they don't have to be festive.

This could also be used as a decoration for a purse, or a hat.

Mine turned out to be just slightly over 4 inches from point to point.



Materials:
WW yarn (I used cotton)
size I hook
Yarn needle

Stitches used:
ss- slip stitch
ch- chain
sc- single crochet
Hdc- half double crochet
dc- double crochet
trc- triple crochet

Pattern:
Ch 3 and join with SS to form ring.

Round 1: Ch 3, (counts as a DC) and make 11 more DC in ring, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4, *sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4*. repeat from * to * around ending with ch 4. ss into top of first sc. You should have 6 ch 1 spaces and 6 ch 3 spaces.

Round 3: Ss into the first ch 1 space, *into the next ch 3 space work sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc, ss into next ch 1 space*. repeat from * to * around, end with ss in top of first ss.

Fasten off and work in ends.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

A November Sunset

Our weather has been exceptionally nice the past few days. It's hard to believe it's November. Last night the sunset was really beautiful.

Smoky MountainsVacation

We spent the last week in the Great Smokey Mountains National Park area. Fall is such a gorgeous time of year to visit there.

The first two pictures were taken along the Gatlinburg bypass road, and the other two were taken in the park.

The second picture from the bottom, (the road through the trees) represents one of my favorite scenes. The road through the trees seems so peaceful, and I love the idea of not knowing what's beyond the bend.

The last picture is the view from a picnic area (Metcalf Bottoms) where we ate lunch one day. Even though it was cold and rainy here in Michigan it was 75 degrees and sunny in Tennessee that day.

Crocheted Lattice Clothes Hanger Cover

Covered hangers keep your clothes from sliding onto the floor. This is easy to customize to any plastic hanger.

WW yarn
Size G hook
Plastic clothes hanger
Yarn needle


Stitches used:

SS - slip stitch
Ch – chain
Dc – Double crochet


The beginning ch 2 represents a DC. All rounds are joined with a ss to the 2nd ch of the beginning ch.

I chain loosely, so I use a ch 2 to represent a DC in this pattern. If you wish, you can use a ch 3 to represent the beginning DC of each round. You will have to add a chain at the beginning of every round and join each round to the third chain of the beginning chain.


This pattern is a lattice design worked in rounds. Each round has 8 DC in it, and they are separated by spaces made of varying numbers of chains in order to make the cover fit around the hanger.

To begin each new round after round 2, ss to the next ch space.

Keep trying the cover on the hanger you are making it for and add chains as needed for the cover to fit. The fit should be snug.
It took 13 rows to cover the hanger I used. I have two different brands of plastic hangers, but they are almost exactly the same size.


PATTERN
This pattern covers half the hanger, so you will need to make 2.

Ch 4, join into ring with SS.

Round 1:
Ch2, Dc into ring, Ch 1, + 2 DC into ring, ch 1 +, repeat x 2 from + to +. You should have 8 DC and 4 ch 1 spaces.

Round 2:
Ss to space between first 2 dc, ch 3, + Dc into next space, ch 1 +, repeat from + to + around, join

Round 3 and 4:
Ss to ch 1 space, ch 3, +dc into next ch 1 sp, ch 1+, repeat from + to + around, join.

Round 5 to 7:
Work same as rounds 3 and 4, but increase every other chain space to 2 chains.
You will have 8 dc’s with 8 spaces, 4 will be ch 2 spaces, 4 will be ch 1 spaces.

Rounds 8 to 10:
Work same as round 5, except increase every chain space between the dc’s to 2 chains.
You will still have 8 DC’s and you will have 8 ch 2 spaces.

Rounds 11-12:

Work same as previous rounds, but increase every other ch space to 3 chains.

Round 13:
Work same as previous rows, but increase each ch space to 3 chains.

If this is too small for your hanger, just continue in pattern, adding chains to the spaces as needed for your hanger. Keep trying it on the hanger as you make the cover.

Make another half the same and fit them over the clothes hanger. Sew together down the middle. I sewed all the Dc’s together. I just wove the yarn through the chains to get to the next pair of DC’s.
Alternatively, you could tie the two halves together on both sides of the hanger, at the top and bottom with yarn or ribbon. This would make it easier to remove the cover at a later time if you wanted to.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.