Ribbed Neckwarmer

Ribbed Neckwarmer

Ribbed Neckwarmer PDF download

Easy enough for beginners, once you master the front post double crochet stitch.  Don’t be intimidated by this if you are a beginner.  Front post stitches are easy, and really increase the effects you are able to get  with crochet.  This can probably be easily made in a couple of hours if you have a little crochet experience.

Here is a video link for the front post stitches.

This site has written instructions for many different crochet techniques, If you prefer written information.   You will have to scroll down a bit to find the front post instructions.

Materials:

WW yarn  ( I used Bernat Super Value Yarn in gray)

Size K hook

2 one inch buttons  (the buttons have to be able to fit into the holes between the stitches, so you may have to get smaller buttons if you crochet tightly)

yarn needle for weaving in ends)

sewing thread to match your buttons

needle for sewing the buttons on

Abbreviations:

HDC- half double crochet

FPDC- front post double crochet

FPHDC-front post half double crochet

Chain 92.  (make sure your chain is around 32 inches long for an average size neck.  You can make it longer or shorter depending on your preference.)

Row 1:  HDC in  3^rd chain from hook and in each chain across.  (You should have 90 stitches, but it really doesn’t matter how many you have)

Row 2 through 13:  Chain 2, turn.  (Chain 2 counts as first stitch)  FPDC in each stitch until you get to the last stitch of the row, HDC into last stitch.)

You can continue this row until the neckwarmer is as wide as you would like it to be.

Row 14:  Chain 2, turn, FPHDC into each stitch.  (Doing HDC for the last row, makes the stitches a little shorter and makes the last row match the first one in width.)

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Put neckwarmer around your neck and decide where you want the buttons to be.  Sew on buttons and enjoy!

 Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Lilacs in February Baby Blanket

Lilacs in February Baby Blanket

PDF Link

This is a very easy pattern, suitable for an advanced beginner.  The hardest parts of it are evenly single crocheting along the sides for the first round of the border, and the reverse HDC round that finishes it.

Materials:

WW yarn 16 oz  (I used a Caron pounder in lilac, and only had about 5 yards of yarn left so you may need more.)

K hook

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Special stitch:

Cluster (worked over two stitches) – yarn over hook, insert hook in first stitch, pull up loop,  yarn over hook again, insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop, yarn over hook and pull through all 5 loops on hook-1 cluster stitch made

Abbreviations:

Ch - -chain

Sc – single crochet

Dc – double crochet

Ss – slip stitch

Hdc – half double crochet

Note:

Pattern works on any even number of stitches, so you can make a blanket of any size.  You could also make a scarf or a rectangular shawl from this pattern.

Gauge:

Unimportant.

My blanket is 36 inches square

Pattern:

Chain 85.

Row 1:  Sc into second chain from hook and into each chain to the end (84 sc)

Alternatively, you could foundation single crochet 84 stitches.

Row 2:  Ch 2, turn, DC into next stitch, * cluster over next 2 stitches, ch 1 *, repeat from * to * until you have two stitches left, DC into the last two stitches  (84 stitches)

Row 3:  ch 1, turn,  sc into each double crochet, into the top of each cluster and into every chain stitch  across (84 sc)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 73 rows.  End with row 3.

Do not finish off.  Work border as follows.

Border:

Round 1:  Ch 1, and do a round of sc around the entire afghan, placing 84 sc down each side and across top and bottom, and 3 sc into each corner.  Join with a ss to beginning sc.

Don’t get too hung up on getting the stitch count exactly right.  As long as you have an even number of stitches the pattern will work out. And if despite your best efforts, you happen to miscount and end up with an extra stitch, you can still make it work out.

Round 2:  (work loosely)  SS to corner stitch, ch 2, dc into same stitch, ch 1 and work 2 more dc’s into the same stitch, * cluster stitch worked over next two stitches, ch 1 *, repeat from * to * until you get to the next corner, into next corner stitch work 8 2 DC, ch 1, 2 DC *, all into the same corner stitch, and then continue with cluster stitch, ch 1 down the next side.  Repeat around until you get to the beginning ch 2.  Join with ss. 

Note:  If you ended up miscounting and end up with an extra stitch, just skip a stitch in the middle of a cluster stitch.  It will barely show in the finished blanket, and it’s a lot easier than ripping out what you’ve already accomplished.

Round 2 makes a series of eyelets that you could weave a ribbon through if you were so inclined.

Round 3:  Reverse HDC row

If you’ve never done this before it might take a bit of trying to get it, but once you do, you’ll be happy you did.  This stitch makes an edge that looks a little like a twisted rope.  I use it a lot for afghans, because I think it really makes the project.  If you don’t want to bother, there’s nothing wrong with another row of SC to finish. 

And I suppose if you are a glutton for punishment, you could do reverse sc. That just means you sc in every stitch, but you work backwards.  It’s a lot harder on your hands and takes a lot longer than the reverse HDC, but it also looks really nice.

As you might expect from the name, reverse HDC is worked in the opposite direction that you would usually work in, from left to right, rather than from right to left.  (I’m right handed, I’m not sure what direction a left handed crocheter would ordinarily work in)

And finally, here’s how to work the stitch, remember to work in the “wrong” direction:

To start: ch 2,  HDC into the first ch 1 space, (which should be before a cluster), ch 1, HDC into next ch 1 space.  Continue across, working a HDC into each ch 1 space, with a ch 1 between each HDC.  When you get to the corner, work a HDC into each DC, skipping the ch 1 in between the two sets of DEC’s. (4 HDC’s going around each corner)  Continue around until you get to where you started.  Join to the beginning ch 2.  I usually pull the yarn through a stitch, rather than slip stitching.  Whatever looks best to you is fine.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Essentially reverse HDC is just a  series of  * HDC, ch 1 * worked backwards.  Each new HDC twists around the last set of stitches, creating a twisted looking border.  Rather than “standing up” the HDCs are “laying down” along the edge of the blanket.  I find that it sometimes takes a little finagling to make the corners look nice.  In this case I did a HDC into each of the 4 DC’s in the corners, and skipped the ch 1 in the middle of the DC’s.  This picture will give you an idea of what the reverse HDC edge looks like.

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

January Snowday Scarf

Updated Sept, 2014

January Snowday Scarf PDF

This is another very easy beginner friendly pattern.  It can be made to any length and width, so this pattern would work for an afghan, a shawl, or a baby blanket as well.

Ordinarily I wouldn’t make a scarf that is worked lengthwise, because I hate working into a long chain.  I saw a scarf pattern that I really liked, started it, and lost the pattern.  It seemed a shame to frog what I had already done, so I decided to see what I could come up with.  This is the result.

My scarf is about 6.5 inches wide and 84 inches long.

Materials needed:

WW yarn – I started with a 10 oz skein of Bernat Rainbow Dreams, and had some left over.  I’d estimate that I used between 7 and 8 ounces of yarn.

K hook

Yarn needle to weave in ends

Of course you could use any yarn with an appropriately sized hook.  I used a larger hook than I might ordinarily use with WW yarn, because I wanted the resulting scarf to drape nicely.  If I was making a blanket, I probably would have used an I or a J hook.

You can easily adjust the length of this scarf by changing the number of stitches in the beginning chain or foundation row.

Stitches used:

Foundation single crochet (optional) - FDC

Ch - chain

Single crochet - SC

Double crochet - DC

Special stitch:  shell = 3 DC into same stitch

Notes: 

This scarf is worked back and forth in long rows. It has nice straight edges and square corners.  (my picture taking skills don’t really reflect this very well.)

 I have not yet tried it as a scarf worked in short rows, but it should work.  Just start with a smaller beginning row, say something like 26 or 30 single crochet stitches in row 1, depending on the width you want.  I do not think it will drape as nicely made this way.

Beginning ch 2,  (turning chain), counts as the first DC of each row.  I like to use a chain 2 to represent a double crochet, but a lot of patterns call for a chain 3.  You can use a chain 3 if you prefer.  I find that if I use a chain 2, my edges turn out nice and straight, and there isn’t a big annoying gap between the turning chain and the next double crochet.

 Each row has 174 stitches.

 Pattern uses a multiple of 4 plus 2 stitches.  This means that the number of single crochets in row 1, has to be divisible by 4, with 2 stitches leftover.

Pattern:

Row 1:  FDC 174 stitches. 

(or you can chain 175, and sc into the second chain from the hook and in every chain to the end to get 174 sc)

Row 2: Ch 2,  turn,  DC in next stitch and in each stitch to the end of the row .

Row 3:  Ch 2, turn,  dc in next stitch, * skip a stitch, shell in next stitch, skip a stitch, DC in next st *,  continue from * to *  until you have four stitches left, (including turning chain), skip a stitch, DC in last 2 DC and in top of the chain 2  of the turning chain

Row 4: Ch 2,  Dc in next 4 stitches,  * skip a stitch, shell in next stitch, skip a stitch, DC in next stitch *,  continue from * to * until you get to the last 5 stitches, skip a stitch, DC in last 3 stitches and in the top of the turning chain.

Starting with row 4, the double crochets are worked into the center DC of each shell, and the shells into the single DC.

Row 5-8:  Repeat rows 3 and 4. 

Row 9:  Ch  2, turn, DC in next stitch and in each stitch to the end.

Row 10:  Ch 1, turn, sc in first DC and in each stitch to the end.  End with a sc in the turning chain of row 9. 

Cut yarn, and weave in ends.

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Ashlea Scarf

This is a very easy scarf pattern. Although the lacy stitch pattern looks a little complicated, it uses only chains, and single and double crochet stitches. Once you establish the pattern, it is only a simple one row repeat, which is easy to memorize. It is simple to make this design wider or narrower, and I think it would make a pretty shawl also.



Notes:

I used WW weight yarn and a K hook. The stitch pattern is quite dense in places, so it drapes better if you use a hook that seems a little large for the yarn. I crochet loosely.

This pattern uses a stitch multiple of 4 plus 1. Then you add 3 more to your beginning chain for the turning chain. (which in this case means that your beginning chain has to be a multiple of 4.) This means that you could make a narrower scarf by subtracting 4 stitches or make a wider scarf or a shawl, by adding stitches in multiples of 4.

My scarf turned out to be 7 inches wide. If I made it again, I might make it a little narrower, but this scarf is going to a "warm the homeless project" that was organized by one of my co-workers so the width will be welcome for warmth.

Stitches used:
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
sc: single crochet

Special stitches:
cluster: 1 dc and 1 sc both in same chain or stitch
v stitch: 1 dc, ch1, 1 dc all done in the same chain or stitch

V stitch in v stitch means that you make a v stitch in the chain 1 space of the v stitch in the previous row.

The chain 3 that starts each row is there to give the scalloped effect along the edge of the scarf and is not used as a working stitch. Just ignore it when you get to the end of the row. The last cluster is worked into the last actual stitch of the row, not the turning chain.

The Pattern:

Chain 20. Remember to use a hook that is a couple of sizes larger than the yarn calls for, so that your scarf will drape nicely.

Row 1: Make cluster into the 4th ch from the hook), **skip a ch, v stitch in the next ch, skip a chain, cluster into the next ch**, repeat from ** to **. You should end with a cluster in the last chain. Ch 3, turn

Row 2: Skip the first sc, make a cluster in the next st, (which is the dc of the cluster below),
**v stitch into the v stitch below, cluster into the DC of the cluster below**, repeat from ** to **, ending with a cluster in the last DC of the last cluster. Do not stitch into the ch 3 turning chain.
ch 3, turn.

Repeat row 2 until your scarf is as long as you want it to be.

The pattern consists of clusters worked in the DC of the clusters in the row beneath alternating with v stitches worked in the chain 1 space of the v stitch in the previous row.

If you don't want the scalloped edge, using a ch 2 as a turning chain will make the edge straighter. If you choose this option, you would need to subtract one chain from the beginning chain.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Dark Chocolate Scarf

This scarf works well for a man, since it isn't at all lacy.

This isn't by any means an original stitch pattern. I've seen it or something very similar in several patterns.

I apologize for the lousy picture. I tried to get a close up picture to show how nice this simple stitch pattern looks. It kind of reminds me of frozen waffles. Eventually I will get a better picture and replace this one, but I don't seem to be able to get one today.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn (I used one 6 oz skein of TLC Essentials in dark brown, to make a scarf that measures about 7 inches wide by 5 feet long.)
size K hook (6.5 mm)

Gauge; doesn't matter
My scarf came out about 7 inches wide. I worked the scarf quite loosely.

Stitches used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
sc2tog - single crochet two together (insert hook in 1st sc, draw up loop, insert hook in next sc, draw up loop, put loop of yarn around hook, and draw through all three loops on hook)

Chain 22 loosely(or any even numberof chains depending on the width you want)

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across (21 sc) (pattern works on any uneven number of stitches)

Row 2: ch 1,* sc2tog in next 2 sc, ch 1*, repeat from *to* until you get to the last stitch, sc in last stitch.

Row 3 and following rows: ch 1, *sc2tog using the sc and the ch 1 loop from the previous row as the two stitches that you sc together, ch 1* repeat from * to * until you get to the last stitch, sc in last stitch.

Continue row 3 until the scarf is as long as you want it to be.

Last row: sc in each stitch and ch 1 loop across. (21 sc.)

This doesn't make a perfectly straight edge, but I like the way it looks, kind of a subtle wavy edge,so I leave it as it is, but if you wanted to you could edge it in sc.


I also like this stitch pattern for dishcloths because it is quite solid, but not too thick to get into small places.
You can also do this stitch by stitching into the chain loop rather than into the ch 1 space. I just think it's easier to go into the space, and it makes the stitch a little more solid.


Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Peek-a-Boo Hat and Scarf Set

Fits 4-6 year old

Hat:

Finished size: 18 inches around at cuff, 7 inches from bottom of cuff to crown.

This hat is stretchy and can easily be made larger by using a larger hook. It can also be made taller by repeating row 7.

Materials:

2 ½ 0z Lion brand Pound of Love

H (5.0 mm) hook

Stitches:

Ch (chain)

Dc (double crochet)

Ss (slip stitch)

FPDC Front post double crochet

Hat is worked in rounds, starting at top.

Chain 4, join to first chain with a ss to form a ring,

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 9 dc in ring, join to top of first ch 3 with ss (10 stitches)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same stitch, dc in each stitch around, join to top of first ch 3 with ss (20 stitches) You are increasing in each stitch

Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in next stitch, * dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch* repeat from * to * around, join to top of first ch 3 with ss (30 stitches) You are increasing in every other stitch.

Round 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around, join to top of beginning ch 3 with ss (40 stitches) You are increasing in every third stitch.

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around, join with ss in top of beginning ch 3. (50 stitches) You are increasing in every fourth stitch

Round 6: Ch 3, dc in next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next 4 stitches, 2 dc in next st*, repeat from * to * around, join in top of beginning ch 3 with ss (60 stitches) You are increasing in every fifth stitch.

Round 7: Ch 3, Dc in each st around, join to top of beginning ch 3 with ss (60 stitches)

Round 8: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, skip 2 stitches, *3 dc in next st, skip next 2 stitches* repeat from * to * around, ending with sk 2 stitches, join to top of beginning ch 3 with ss

Round 9-13: repeat rows 7 and 8, ending with row 7.

Row 14: ch 3 , FPDC around post of next st, * dc in next st, FPDC around post of next st* repeat from * to * around, ending with FPDC around post of last st. , Join with ss to top of beginning ch 3.

Round 15: ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Scarf:

Finished size: mine is 5 inches wide by 54 inches long

Scarf can be made any size by adjusting starting chain and number of rows

Pattern requires multiple of 3 stitches plus 2

Materials:

Lion brand Pound of Love (amount depends on size)

J (6.0mm) hook

Gauge: unimportant

Stitches used:

FDC (Foundation double crochet) (or alternatively you could make a chain and dc into it)

Sc (single crochet)

Dc (double crochet)

Ch (chain)

Row 1: FDC 158 stitches (or ch 160 st, dc into 3^rd ch from hook and into each chain for total of 158 dc)

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, (Counts as first dc here and throughout), skip next st, 3 dc in next st, * skip 2 stitches, 3 dc in next st* repeat from * to * until you have 2 st left, skip a stitch and dc into top of last DC

Row 3: ch 3, turn, dc across (158 st)

Row 4-7: Repeat rows 2 and 3, ending with row 3

Do not fasten off: Work edging:

*(sc, ch1, sc) in corner, place 2 sc in end of each row of short end of scarf, (sc,ch1,sc) in corner, sc in each stitch of long side of scarf* repeat from * to * once more, join to beginning sc with ss. Fasten off and work in ends.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.