This is a fairly simple pattern and an advanced beginner could probably make it in an hour or two. Don’t be intimidated by the front post stitches. There are a lot of good online instructions that can teach you how to do them. You can even leave them out, although you won’t get the ribbed look to the cuff if you do that. This pattern can also be used to make a hat without the hole in the top. Instructions for that appear at the bottom of the pattern.
Materials needed:
WW yarn
Size H crochet hook
Covered rubber band (the kind you would use for a ponytail on your hair)
Stitches Used:
Ch-chain
Sc - single crochet
Ss-slip stitch
Dc-double crochet
HDC-half double crochet
FPHDC-front post half double crochet
Notes:
This hat has a lot of stretch. Mine had a 20 inch circumference around the cuff, and was between 7.5 and 8 inches high, measuring from the bottom of the cuff to the rubber band. It stretched to easily fit my head, even though I actually designed it for my young teen great niece.
It is reversible, the cuff looks ribbed on one side and has horizontal ridges on the other side.
I crochet loosely, but you can add extra increase rows if you crochet tightly. Likewise, you can easily add length if needed.
Except for round 1, the beginning ch 2 counts as a double crochet. You can use a ch 3 here if you prefer. When I use a ch 3, I get a gap.
This hat is made in rounds with the first round crocheted onto the rubber band. This allows the top of the hat to fit snuggly around the hair.
The ch 2 at the beginning of rounds counts as a stitch, unless stated otherwise.
Pattern:
Round 1: attach yarn to rubber band with a slip knot, chain 2, (in this round the ch 2 does not count as a stitch), make 24 double crochet stitches worked into the rubber band. Join with ss to first dc. (24 stitches)
Round 2: chain 2, ( counts as first dc. ( you may prefer to chain 3 rather than 2), 2 dc in next stitch, *1 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch*, repeat the directions between the *’s to the end of the round, join to top of beginning ch 2 with a ss. (You have added an extra stitch in every other stitch for a total of 36 stitches)
If you want your hat to be a little larger, add an increase round here by adding a stitch in every third stitch. (You would end up with 48 stitches). The rest of the stitch counts will be different if you choose this option). If you think you need still another increase row, increase in every fourth stitch around. You would then have 60 stitches before you start round 3.
Round 3: ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch, skip one stitch, *3 dc in next stitch, skip one stitch*, repeat the directions between the *’s around, join with ss into top of beginning ch 2. (You are placing three dc in every other stitch. (52 dc)
Rounds 4-9: Ss to Center dc of first dc group. Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch, 3 dc in the center stitch of each dc group from the previous row, join to top of beginning ch 2 with a ss. (52 stitches)
(If you want more length do more repeats of rounds 4 to 9)
Round 10: ch 2, HDC in each stitch around, join around post of beginning ch 2. (52 stitches)
Round 11 to 13: Ch 3, FPHDC around the post of each stitch in the previous row. Join to top of the beginning ch 3 with a ss.
(If you want a wider cuff, add more of these rounds. If you hate FP stitches, just do regular HDC. Crocheting around the post gives the cuff a ribbed look.)
Row 14: ch 1, turn. ( this is the only time in this pattern that you turn. You will work this round in the opposite direction of the other rounds and you will likely wish to turn the hat inside out to do this one.)
Sc in same stitch as the joining stitch and sc around. Join with ss in the first sc.
Finish off by weaving in yarn ends.
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Variation:
If you wish to use this pattern to make a regular hat, you can also do that. You won’t need the covered rubber band.
To start, chain 4, join with a ss to make a ring. Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a stitch here, but does in the next row.), and work 12 into the ring. Join with a ss into top of beginning dc. (12 dc)
Second round, chain 2, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch into the beginning ch 2. (24 dc)
Proceed with messy bun hat pattern, starting with round 2.
This is so easy that you still have time to make one of these for Christmas. I made this one is just a little over an hour.
WW yarn (I used Bernat Special Value yarn)
J hook
Yarn needle
Large button (optional)
Stitches used:
Ch (Chain)
DC (Double crochet)
HDC (Half double crochet)
FPDC (Front post double crochet)
BPDC (back post double crochet)
TC (Triple Crochet)
Even if you have never done post stitches before, you should be able to make this headband. Here is a link to an article from Crochet Today that explains how to do post stitches, and shows some of the lovely effects that can be achieved with them. (If you Google front or back post stitches, you'll find lots more tutorials for these stitches.)
Size: 4 inches wide by approximately 18 inches in diameter.
Can easily be modified to make larger or smaller.
My headband is worked quite loosely so it is somewhat lacy in appearance. Using a smaller hook and working more tightly will create a more solid headband. You will need more rows to get enough length, and a longer beginning chain to make it as wide as mine. The pattern works with any uneven number of DCs in the first row. The stitch pattern could also be used to make a ribbed scarf.
Chain 15 fairly loosely.
1st row: DC in 3rd chain from hook and in each chain across. (13 DC) (Ist two chain count as a DC in this row.)
2nd row: Chain 2, (counts as first HDC here and throughout rest of pattern), turn, *FPDC in next stitch, HDC in next stitch* repeat from * to * to end of row, working last HDC into the turning chain. (7 HDC's and 6 FPDC's)
3rd row: Chain 2, turn, *BPDC in next stitch, HDC in next stitch*, repeat from * to * across, working last HDC into the turning chain
Notes: Each row has 13 stitches in it.
You will always BPDC into the previous rows FPDC and vice versa. All HDCs are made into the HDCs of the previous rows.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until headband is long enough to fit around your head snugly. (I did 32 rows, all worked loosely, and my headband was about 18 inches long before I sewed the ends together.) Sew ends together.
Flower trim:
Chain 4, join with slip stitch to form a ring. *Chain 3, slip stitch into ring to form a loop*. Repeat from * to * 6 or 7 more times, making chain 3 loops around the outside of the ch 4 ring. (each loop will form a petal, and you can make any number of petals, I made 7)
Once you have your loops made, you will stitch into the loops to form petals.
Into each loop do: 1 SC, 2 HDCs, 2 DCs, 1 TC, 2 DCs, 2 HDCs, 1 SC . This will form a petal. In between each petal I slip stitched into the area between each loop, but I don't think this is necessary.
Sew flower to headband, using it to hide the area where you joined the ends. If desired sew a button to the center of the flower.
Alternatively, a row of large buttons or a felt flower would also be an effective and attractive way to hide the seam. (or maybe your sewing is better than mine and your seam looks good and doesn't need hiding!)
I noticed that I hit 50 followers a few days ago. This was a totally amazing thing to me, so I decided that I needed to get to work on another pattern. I had already made this afghan for a Christmas gift, so I took it out of its wrapping so I could write out the pattern.
I apologize for my lousy photography. I could blame the gloomy weather, but the truth is that I have a hard time getting good pictures, even when the lighting is perfect.
I made this as a gift for my son. I wanted to make a warm, masculine afghan that I could finish quickly.
Afghan is worked holding two strands of yarn together. You could certainly use a single strand of yarn with a smaller hook, but your afghan would be smaller.
Size: mine turned out to be about 54 inches square.
Difficulty: advanced beginner
Materials:
WW yarn in two colors. I used approximately 1500 yards of yarn (a little over 4 skeins of Carons Simply Soft and just under 4 skeins of Bernat Super Value) I used black and a medium shade of green
Size N hook
Yarn needle
Abbreviations used:
FDC- foundation double crochet
DC- double crochet
Ch-chain
BPDC back post double crochet
FPDC front post double crochet
St- stitch
Sc- single crochet
ss-slip stitch
Special stitch: DC two together: wrap yarn around hook once, insert into first stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn around hook,pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through remaining three loops on hook (if you usually do this stitch differently, do it your own way, it will look fine)
Pattern:
NOTE: Ch 2 always counts as the first stitch
Every row has 112 stitches
Turn at the end of every row
Ridges created by FPDC and BPDC should always be on the front of the afghan.
First row:
FDC 112 (or make 112 DC into a chain., I hate working into a chain, so I like to use the FDC method)
To start with a chain, Ch 114 and dc into 3rd ch from the hook and every chain to make 112 DC's in your foundation row.
Row 2 and 3: Ch 2, dc to end
Row 4: (begin mesh pattern)
Ch 2, Dc in next 6 stitches, **ch1, skip a stich, DC in next stitch, ch 1 skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC in next st, ch 1, DC in next 8 stitches** Repeat ** to ** to the end. (yes the beginning has 7 DC, but you end with 8 DC) You should have 8 mesh sections in this row, each with 4 ch 1 spaces.
For rows 5 to 10 . Count the ch 1 spaces as a stitch, and work the DC’s into the space into the space.
Row 5: Ch 2, Dc in next 8 stitches, including the first ch 1 space of the previous row, ** ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space, Ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into Ch 1 space, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC in next 10 stitches, including last ch 1 space of previous row**, repeat to section in between **’s to end, there will be 8 DC in the last solid section. You will have 3 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section.
Row 6: Ch 2, DC in next 9 stitches, **ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, DC into next 12 stitches,** repeat stitches between **’s to the end. The row will end with 9 DC’s. There will be 2 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section.
Row 7: Ch 2, DC into next 10 stitches, ** ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, skip a stitch, Dc into next 14 stitches** Repeat stitches between **’s to end. The row will end with 10 DC’s. You will have 1 ch space in each mesh section.
Row 8: repeat row 6 pattern (you won’t have as many ch 1 spaces to work into, but the pattern is the same) (2 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)
Row 9: Repeat Row 5 (3 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)
Row 10: repeat row 4 (4 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)
Row 11: Ch 2, DC across
Row 12: Ch 2, BPDC across (this will create a ridge on the front side of the afghan)
Row 13: Ch 2, FPDC across
Row 14: Ch 2, DC across
Row 15: Ch 2, **Skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, Working around stitch just made, DC in skipped stitch** (crossed double crochet made) Repeat stitches between **’s to 2nd last stitch from the end, DC in last stitch
Row 16-18: Ch 2, Dc across
Row 19: Ch 2, **DC two together, ch 1, ** Repeat stitches between **’s to last stitch, DC in last stitch.
Row20-23: repeat row 18, using the ch 1 space as a stitch.
Row 24-26: Ch 2, Dc across
Row: 27: repeat row 15
Row 28-29: Ch 2, DC across
Row 30: Repeat row 12 (BPDC row)
Row 31: repeat row 13 (FPDC row)
Row 32: ch 2, Dc across
Row 33: repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)
Row 34 and 35: Ch 2, DC across
Row 36: repeat row 12 (BPDC row)
Row 37: repeat row 13 (FPDC row)
Row 38: ch 2, DC across
Row 39: repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)
Row 40 to 42: Ch 2, dc across
Row 43-47: Repeat rows 19-23
Row 48 - 50: Ch 2, Dc across
Row 51: Repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)
Row 52 and 53: Ch 2, DC across
Row 54: Repeat row 12 (BPDC row)
Row 55: Repeat row 13 (FPDC row)
Row 56: Ch 2, DC across
Row 57 – 63: repeat rows 4 to 10 (mesh pattern)
Row 64 –66: Ch 2, Dc across
This finishes the main body of the afghan. I finished mine with 2 rows of sc worked around the entire thing. You could quit now if you want. If you plan to add a border, don’t cut the yarn, just continue onto the border.
SC border: Ch 1, turn, sc across. Place 3 stitches in the corner and continue single crocheting along the side of the afghan, evenly placing stitches into ends of the rows. When you get to the corner, place 3 stitches in the corner stitch, sc across the end, and continue around the e=next side, placing 3 stitches in each corner. Join round with a slip stitch, ch 1 and go around again. Fasten off and weave in ends.
I try to get the same number of sc’s down each side, so that the finished afghan looks nice and even. I don’t think one more or less makes much difference, but a few extra stitches down one side as compared with the other side can make the afghan look lop-sided.
Note: Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
This is a relatively easy blanket, which I think should be achievable by an advanced beginner.It takes a little practice to get proficient at the crossed doubles,(mostly just figuring out which is the next stitch to skip, since thecrossed Dc pulls the stitches that they have been worked into, close together),but once you get it, they are easy.
This blanket can be adapted to be a full size afghan or it can be made smaller.See end of pattern for some ideas on how to change the size.
Gauge: unimportant
I crochet somewhat loosely.My blanket will be about 42 inches square.
Materials:
WW yarn, (I used 26-28 oz of yarn.)
Crochet hook size K
Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Any yarn will work, just use an appropriately sized hook, size will vary with yarn used.
Stitches used:
St-stitch
ch-chain
sc-single crochet
dc-double crochet
Crossed doubles
fpdc-Front post double crochet(instead of working into the top of the dc in the previous row, you work around the post of the stitch from the front of it)
bpdc-Back post double crochet(same as above, but you are working the stich from the back of the post of the dc from the previous row)
Front and back post stitches form what I call “fake cables” or ridges on the front of your work.I like them because they are an easy way to add some texture and interest to crocheted fabric.
Note that all rows will have 120 stitches in them. The afghan is made in one piece.However, I have divided the pattern into sections to make it a little easier to keep track of.Do not end off at the end of a section, keep crocheting onto the next one. The afghan is made as follows:
Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. (120 sc) this is the right side)
Row 2:ch 2 (always counts as first dc), dc in each stitch across.
Row 3:ch 2, bpdc in eachst across until you reach the turning ch, dc into top of turning ch
Row 4:ch 2, fpdc in each st across until you reach the turning ch, dc into top of turning ch
Row 5:ch 2, dc in each st across, last stitch will be into the top of the turning ch
Row 6:Ch 2, * skip a stitch, dc into the next stitch.Now, working around the stitch you just made, dc into the skipped stitch.(your crochet hook will be in front of the dc you just made)*(These two stitches made one set of crossed doubles)repeat from * to * until you get to the turning chain.Dc into the top of the turning chain.
Row 7: Repeat row 2, finishing with a dc in the top of the turning chainrow)
Row 8: ch, sc in each st across, finishing with a sc in top of turning ch
Row 9.Repeat row 7.(it’s a DC row)
Row 10:Repeat row 6.(crossed doubles)
Row 11 –13:Repeat rows 7 to 9.
Row 14:Repeat row 6. (crossed doubles)
Row 15:Repeat row 8.(sc row)
Row 16: repeat row 2. (double crochet row)
Row 17:repeat row 3.(bpdc row)
Row 18:repeat row 4(fpdc row)
Row 19:repeat row 8 (sc row)
Section 2:
Rows 20-32: ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st,*sc in next st, dc in next st * repeat from * to * to end of row (end this section with a wrong side row)
The rest of the afghan is repeats of the previous sections.
Rows 33-51:repeat section 1
Row 52 to 64:repeat section 2
Rows 65-81: repeat section 1
Do not cut yarn.Work a sc border all around the blanket, placing 3 sc into each corner and spacing stitches evenly across the ends of the rows.I try to make the same number of stitches in each end, so that the finished blanket turns out nice and even. I finished with a row of reverse HDC. (*HDC in a stitch, ch 1, skip a stitch* and repeat from *to*) worked all around but from left to right, rather than the usual right to left. This makes a nice rope like border.
This blanket can easily be made larger or smaller.Start with an even number of sc in the first row.
To make the blanket narrower, you could subtract some rows from section 2, (making sure to end with a wrong side row), or leave out rows 11 to 13 in section 1.This would give you a panel with two rows of crossed doubles in between the fake cables created by the fpdc's and bpdc's.
To make it wider, you could either add panels, add more rows to section 2, add some extra rows into one of the panels, or make up additions of your own.
I purposely didn’t add any very lacy stitches, because I wanted the finished product to be suitable for either a boys or a girls blanket.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
This is a small size market bag that I made to use up some leftover WW cotton yarn. Laying flat, mine measures about 14 inches wide, by 15 inches long, excluding the handles. it is quite stretchy, so it will hold a fair amount.
Materials: WW cotton yarn: I used approx 6 - 7 oz variegated (it was the last of one of those 14 oz skeins of peaches and cream) and 2 oz. or so of a co-ordinating plain color G and H hooks 4 stitch markers yarn needle
Stitches used: ch - chain sc - single crochet dc - double crochet
Starting with variegated yarn and H hook: ch 40. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (39 sc) Ch 1, turn. row 2-10: SC in each ch across. (39 sc in each row) Ch 1 turn.
You will now begin working in rounds. Row 11 and Round 1: Sc in each st across. When you reach the end of the row, turn work so that you can sc across the ends of the 11 sc rows. Do not ch 1. Do one sc in the end of each row. (11 sc) when you get to the other side, sc in the loose loops of the beginning chain. (39 sc) Make a sc in the other ends of the 11 sc rows. Join to the first sc of the round. Round 12 - 15: Ch 1, Sc in each stitch around, join the stitches of each round to the beginning sc of that round. You should have 100 sc. (Don't worry if you don't. As long as you have an even number of stitches when you get to the mesh part, the pattern will work. Actually, for that matter, you can always fudge a little in the first row to make it work, its only a market bag after all!)
If you want a larger solid bottom, just do more sc rounds, until the solid part is a high as you want it. I would probably have done more if I wasn't worried about running out of yarn.
Start mesh pattern, continue to work in rounds: Round 16: Ch 4, (counts as first dc plus ch 1), skip a stitch, *DC in next st, ch 1. Skip a stitch * repeat from * to * around, join in third st of the beginning ch 4, slip stitch into the space created by the ch 4. (I don't know quite how to write that, it would be like slip stitching into the ch 1 space)
round 17-32: Ch 4, DC into next ch 1 space, ch 1, *DC into next ch 1 space, ch 1*, repeat from * to * around, join into 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, slip stitch into space created by the ch 4.
Again, you can add more rounds here to make the bag taller.
round 33-35: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join to beginning st Fasten off.
Start handles: Lay your bag down flat and mark the stitch on each side. Count out 12 stitches on either side of this stitch and place a marker in each of them. This should give you 25 stitches front and back between the markers.
Join contrasting yarn at a marker.
round 1: Sc from that marker around the side of the bag to the next marker. Ch 30. Skip the 25 stitches on the flat side of the bag, (it will be either the front or back depending on where you joined your yarn.) Sc into the next marked stitch and continue to the next marker. Ch 30 to make the other handles and join to the beginning sc with a slip stitch.
Round 2 - 6- Ch 1, sc in joining stitch and in each st and chain around (110 sc) Again it doesn't really matter if you have a different number of stitches.
At the end of round 6 fasten off. Still using the H hook, do a round of SC around the inside (circle part) of the handles.
Using a G hook, do a round of sc around the inside of the handles and around the top of the bag. I found that using a smaller hook for this made a slightly less stretchy handle.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Once you have made one of these bags, you will find it very easy to make a larger bag using the same general idea.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Round 1: Ch 3, (counts as a DC) and make 11 more DC in ring, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4, *sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4*. repeat from * to * around ending with ch 4. ss into top of first sc. You should have 6 ch 1 spaces and 6 ch 3 spaces.
Round 3: Ss into the first ch 1 space, *into the next ch 3 space work sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc, ss into next ch 1 space*. repeat from * to * around, end with ss in top of first ss.
Fasten off and work in ends.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Covered hangers keep your clothes from sliding onto the floor. This is easy to customize to any plastic hanger.
WW yarn Size G hook Plastic clothes hanger Yarn needle
Stitches used:
SS - slip stitch Ch – chain Dc – Double crochet
The beginning ch 2 represents a DC. All rounds are joined with a ss to the 2nd ch of the beginning ch.
I chain loosely, so I use a ch 2 to represent a DC in this pattern. If you wish, you can use a ch 3 to represent the beginning DC of each round. You will have to add a chain at the beginning of every round and join each round to the third chain of the beginning chain.
This pattern is a lattice design worked in rounds. Each round has 8 DC in it, and they are separated by spaces made of varying numbers of chains in order to make the cover fit around the hanger.
To begin each new round after round 2, ss to the next ch space.
Keep trying the cover on the hanger you are making it for and add chains as needed for the cover to fit. The fit should be snug. It took 13 rows to cover the hanger I used. I have two different brands of plastic hangers, but they are almost exactly the same size.
PATTERN This pattern covers half the hanger, so you will need to make 2.
Ch 4, join into ring with SS.
Round 1: Ch2, Dc into ring, Ch 1, + 2 DC into ring, ch 1 +, repeat x 2 from + to +. You should have 8 DC and 4 ch 1 spaces.
Round 2: Ss to space between first 2 dc, ch 3, + Dc into next space, ch 1 +, repeat from + to + around, join
Round 3 and 4: Ss to ch 1 space, ch 3, +dc into next ch 1 sp, ch 1+, repeat from + to + around, join.
Round 5 to 7: Work same as rounds 3 and 4, but increase every other chain space to 2 chains. You will have 8 dc’s with 8 spaces, 4 will be ch 2 spaces, 4 will be ch 1 spaces.
Rounds 8 to 10: Work same as round 5, except increase every chain space between the dc’s to 2 chains. You will still have 8 DC’s and you will have 8 ch 2 spaces.
Rounds 11-12:
Work same as previous rounds, but increase every other ch space to 3 chains.
Round 13: Work same as previous rows, but increase each ch space to 3 chains.
If this is too small for your hanger, just continue in pattern, adding chains to the spaces as needed for your hanger. Keep trying it on the hanger as you make the cover.
Make another half the same and fit them over the clothes hanger. Sew together down the middle. I sewed all the Dc’s together. I just wove the yarn through the chains to get to the next pair of DC’s. Alternatively, you could tie the two halves together on both sides of the hanger, at the top and bottom with yarn or ribbon. This would make it easier to remove the cover at a later time if you wanted to.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Ch 3, 7 HDC in 3rd ch from hook, join to top of beginning ch.(8 HDC)
Round 2:
Ch 2, Hdc in same st,2HDC in each st around, join to top of beginning ch. (16 HDC)
Rounds 3 to 6:
Ch 2, Hdc in each st around.(16 Hdc)
Start working back and forth in rows.4 stitches in the round will be left unworked.
Row 7:
Ch 2, Hdc in the next 11 stitches. (12 Hdc)
Row 8 and 9:
Ch 2, turn, Hdc in each st around(12 Hdc)
Row 10:
Ch2, turn, Hdc in next st, HDC 2 together 4 times, Hdc in last 2 stitches(8 HDC)
Now you will again work in rounds.
Round 11:
ch 1, turn.
You will be working along the ends of the rows just completed.
Make 6 sc evenly spaced across the ends of rows 7 to 10.
Sc in the 4 stitches left unworked from round 6, then make 6 more sc evenly spaced along the other ends of rows 7 to 10.
Join with a ss to the first sc on the other side.You will have a bootie shape with a slit in the heel.(16 sc)
Round 12:
Ch 2, HDC in each st aroundJoin with SS to top of beginning ch 2.(16 HDC)
Round 13:
(eyelet row)
Ch 3, skip a stitch, + Hdc in next st, ch 1, Skip a stitch +repeat from + to + around , join with SS to top of beginning ch (8 ch 1 spaces)
Round 14:
SS to a ch 1 space,ch 3, 2 dc in same space, make a 3 dc in each of the other ch 1 spaces, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3.
Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to weave down to the slit in the heel and sew it up.
Weave in ends.Thread a length of ribbon through the eyelets, or make a crocheted chain to use for a tie.
These booties can be made smaller by omitting a round, or larger by adding a round or row.They can be made taller by adding a row of sc or another shell row at the end.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Join each round with a ss in top of the beginning chain.
Round 1:
Ch 4, 11 Dc in 4th ch from hook, join with ssto top of beginning ch.(12 DC)
Round 2:
Ch 3, Dc in same st , 2 dC on each st around., join with ss to top of beginning ch 3 (24 DC)
Round 3:
Ch 3, + 2 Dc in next st, DC in next st +repeat from + to+ , 1 more Dc in same st as beginning ch 3, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3.(36 DC)
Round 4:
Ch 3 and Dc in each st around, join with SS in top of beginning ch 3.(36 DC)
Round 5:
(this row still increases the diameter of the hat.)
SS to next st,ch 3, 2 more DC in same st, + skip a stitch, 3 DC in next st +,repeat from + to + around, join with SS in top of beginning ch 3. (18shells, each with 3 DC)
Round 6 to 12
SS to the center st of the next 3 DC group, do 3 DC in center stitch of each shell around.
Round 13:
Ch 2, HDC in next st and in each st around.
Fasten off.
Notes: You can easily make this hat bigger by adding some extra stitches in row 4.
Remember that row 5 increases the number of stitches again by 1/3, so don't add too many stitches. You need an even number of stitches in row 4 to make the pattern work.
You could also make the hat larger just by using a larger hook.
Add extra rows of shells to make hat taller.
If you want a turned up cuff add a few more rows of Hdc at the end.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
I saw a really cute snowman made from fabric yo-yo's the other day. I wondered if I could re-create it in crochet and this is the result.
First you will need to make at least 6 yo-yo's. These are three dimensional, similar to the kind that are made for use in quilts or for embellishing things, rather than the flat circles that I would consider a crocheted yo-yo.
This snowman would work in any size yarn; for example: thread would make a tiny ornament. Once you get the basic idea of how he is constructed you can easily make him taller, shorter, fatter, etc.
You could also make a Santa, by using red yarn for the yo's, maybe with a black center yo-yo for his belt. Add a Santa face and hat, put a buckle on the belt, embellish with some whiskers and you will have Santa Claus. A pumpkin is another idea that would work up really easily this way. I think it would even work to make an angel.
Pattern Gauge is unimportant.
First make 5 different size yo-yo's. You will need a total of 6, but two of them are the same size.
Materials -WW yarn in white, (I estimate that I used between 3 and 4 Oz), small amounts of black, orange, and blue
-H and G hooks
-buttons, beads or whatever you would like to use for embellishment
-small amount of white stuffing for head
-Yarn needle
-sewing needle and black thread (used to sew embellishments onto the snowman, you could glue them on instead)
Stitches used:
Ch -chain
SS -slip stitch
DC -double crochet
HDC -half double crochet
SC -single crochet
Special Stitches These are the way I did these techniques, not necessarily the correct way. You can use whatever method you like. Neatness and accuracy aren't that important here, since this won't show much.
DC 2 tog -Double crochet two together
Yarn over hook, insert into next stitch, Yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over hook, insert into next stitch, yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over, and pull through all loops on hook
HDC 2 tog -Half double crochet two together
Yarn over hook, insert into next stitch, yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over hook, insert in next stitch, yarn over hook, pull through all loops on hook.
Body of Snowman:
The body of the snowman is made up of yo-yos:
Use White yarn and H hook
Note: Start all DC rows with a Ch 3, start all HDC rows with a ch 2, (these count as stitches)
If a row is done in SC, start with a ch 1 and do a SC in the same stitch. In this case the ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
Finish all yo-yo's by gathering as directed in Yo-Yo 1.
Everything except the scarf is worked in rounds.
Yo-Yo 1 (make 2)
Leave a very long tail (say around 24 inches) on one of these to use for sewing the yo-yo's together. If you forget, don't worry about it, you'll just have to weave in an extra end!)
Ch 4 and form into a circle with a ss.
Round 1: Ch3 (counts as first DC( and do 11 more DC in the circle.) Join to top of beginning Ch 3 with SS (12 DC)
Round 2: Ch 3, Dc in same st, 2 DC in each st around Join to top of beginning Ch 3 with SS. (increase a stitch in every stitch) (24 DC)
Round 3: Ch 3, 2 DC in next st, *1 Dc in next st, 2 DC in next st* repeat from * to * around Join to top of Beginning CH 3 with SS (increase a stitch in every second stitch) (36 DC)
Round 4: Ch 3, DC in next st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around Join to top of beginning ch 3. (increase a stitch in every third stitch) (48 DC)
Now start decreasing:
Round 5 and 6: Ch 3, DC decrease over next two stitches around, until you get to the last st. Dc in that st, and join to the top of the beginning ch 3
Fasten off, leaving a tail 8 or 10 inches long. Thread this tail into a yarn needle and weave the yarn through the stitches of the last row. Pull together tightly to gather the yo-yo into a fluffy shape. If its not fluffly looking enough for you gather up a few random stitches from the previous row also. The gathered side is the top of the yo-yo.
You should have something that looks like a squashed ball, pretty flat on the bottom and sort of ruffly and wrinkly on the top.
Yo-Yo 2: (make 1)
Made the same as yo-yo 1 with the addition of one more increase row.
After round 4 do a row where you increase in every 4th stitch. (60 DC)
Do two decrease rows, same as rounds 5 and 6 of yo-yo 1.
Yo-Yo 3: (make 1)
Same as yo-yo 1, except use HDC in place of all DC's. Use HDC's to do decrease rows rather than DC decrease.
Yo-Yo 4:
Same as yo-yo I except:
Round 1 and 2: Do HDC's in place of all DC's
Round 3 and 4 : Do SC in place of DC's
do only one row of DC decreases before gathering.
Yo-Yo 5:
Same as y0-yo 1 except:
Do round 1 Same as yo-yo one.
Round 2: Use Sc in place of DC
Do one decrease row using DC stitch.
This should give you 6 yo-yos, in 5 different sizes.
Fasten off and weave in all ends except for the long tail that you left for sewing the yo-yo's together. To assemble the snowman's body from the yo-yo's stack them in this order, starting from the bottom and working up to the snowman's neck:
#1, 2,1,3,4,5. The largest yo-yo is second from the bottom and they get progressively smaller as they go up. If you wanted to, you could make an additional yo-yo #3 and use it as the bottom yo-yo. This would give a more rounded silhouette to the snowman. The bottom yo-yo should have the long tail for joining the yo-yos together.
To join them together, thread the long tail onto your yarn needle. Pull the yarn up through the center of all the yo-yo's. when you get to the top, turn around and go back down to the bottom. Make sure you catch some strands of the top yo-yo before you go back down. You can either fasten off or repeat this step to make the joining a little more secure.
I forgot to leave a long tail, so I just brought a long strand of yarn up through the yo-yo's back down again and then I tied the ends together and tucked them into the bottom yo-yo.
One time up and down seemed secure enough to me, but my snowman is just going to sit on a shelf.
Here's what the snowman should look like so far
HEAD
Use white yarn, and G hook.
Chain 3, join with SS to form circle.
Round 1: Chain 2, 9 HDC's in circle.Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS. (10 HDC's)
Round 2: Ch 2, HDC in same st, 2 HDC's in each st around Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS. (20 HDC's)
(If you want a larger head do another increase row, increasing in every 2nd stitch as in yo-yo one, before continuing. My snowman's head was too big, when I did this. I actually still think my snowman's head is a little too big, but this is a matter of personal preference. You could make it smaller by doing 10 HDC's in round 1 rather than 12)
Rounds 3 to 7: Ch 2, HDC in each st around, Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS.
Round 8: Ch 2, HDc decrease in next 2 stitches around, HDC in last st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Weave in beginning yarn end. Stuff head with stuffing. To some extent you can control the head size by the amount of stuffing you put in it. Thread tail on yarn needle, and gather bottom of head together to form it into a ball. Leave a tail long enough to use for sewing the head to the body.
Sew head to body.
HAT
Use black yarn and G hook.
Work through round 2 of Yo-yo 3.
(note that if you made a larger head, you may want to work another increase row (possibly in sc) before starting the sides of the hat)
Start sides of hat:
(if you are using very stiff yarn, you may be able to get by with HDC's rather than SC's here and do fewer rows)
Round 3: Ch 1, Sc in same st, sc in the front loop only of each st around. Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS. (24 SC)
Round 4and 5: Ch 1, Sc in same st, and in each st around. If you want a taller hat do another row or two.
Last row of sides of hat: Same as row 4 and 5 but increase round by 2 sc (26 sc)
Start Brim:
Round 1:
Chain 2, and turn. Hdc in same st as joining. 2 HDc in front loop only of each st around Join to top of beginning ch 2. (52 HDC)
Round 2: ch, Sc in each st around. Join to first st.
You can make the brim wider by repeating round 2.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Shape hat brim with your fingers.
Sew hat to snowman's head. I used the end tail to do this.
Scarf
Chain 45, (or however long you want the scarf to be,), turn and HDC in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Fasten off. I added some fringe to the ends of my scarf.
Tie scarf loosely around snowman's neck.
Now that the snowman is assembled, give him some personality with embellishments.
I used beads for eyes, buttons for buttons, and sewed a cardinal button to his hat. I made an orange yarn french knot for a nose, but I haven't managed to give him a mouth yet. I've tried three times to embroider one on, and none of my attempts worked out. I'm going to leave it like this for now and buy some smaller black beads next time I'm out and use those for his mouth.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
These are very simple. I wanted napkin rings to go with my Christmas dishes. However, it would be really easy to make these to go with any set of dishes.
My rings turned out about 2 inches in diameter, and about 1 1/2 inches high.
I used Lustre-sheen yarn and a F hook. I think size D or E would've been a little better, but I can't find any of my smaller hooks. I also used 1/8 inch wide ribbon.
Chain 26 and join with a slip stitch to make a circle.
Round 1: Being careful not to twist the chain, CH 1, and then SC insame stitch, and in each chain around, joining to the first SC with a SS.
Round 2 and 3: Ch 1 and SC in same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a SS.
round 4: Ch 3, *skip a stitch, HDC in next stitch, ch 1*, repeat around, skip last stitch, join to 2nd chain of beginning ch 3 with a SS. (You are doing a HDC in every other stitch, with a ch 1 between them.) If you wish to use wider ribon, you may need to do DC in place of the HDC's. In that case start the round with a chain 4)
Round 5: Ch I, SC in same ST, and in each St and chain 1 space around. Join with a SS.
Round 6 and 7: repeat rounds 2 and 3.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Weave a short length of ribbon through the spaces of round 4 and tie in a bow.
If you wanted to use WW yarn, you will probably want to begin with a shorter starting chain. Thread would also work with a longer starting chain.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
This scarf works well for a man, since it isn't at all lacy.
This isn't by any means an original stitch pattern. I've seen it or something very similar in several patterns.
I apologize for the lousy picture. I tried to get a close up picture to show how nice this simple stitch pattern looks. It kind of reminds me of frozen waffles. Eventually I will get a better picture and replace this one, but I don't seem to be able to get one today.
Materials: Worsted weight yarn (I used one 6 oz skein of TLC Essentials in dark brown, to make a scarf that measures about 7 inches wide by 5 feet long.) size K hook (6.5 mm)
Gauge; doesn't matter My scarf came out about 7 inches wide. I worked the scarf quite loosely.
Stitches used: ch - chain sc - single crochet sc2tog - single crochet two together (insert hook in 1st sc, draw up loop, insert hook in next sc, draw up loop, put loop of yarn around hook, and draw through all three loops on hook)
Chain 22 loosely(or any even numberof chains depending on the width you want)
Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across (21 sc) (pattern works on any uneven number of stitches)
Row 2: ch 1,* sc2tog in next 2 sc, ch 1*, repeat from *to* until you get to the last stitch, sc in last stitch.
Row 3 and following rows: ch 1, *sc2tog using the sc and the ch 1 loop from the previous row as the two stitches that you sc together, ch 1* repeat from * to * until you get to the last stitch, sc in last stitch.
Continue row 3 until the scarf is as long as you want it to be.
Last row: sc in each stitch and ch 1 loop across. (21 sc.)
This doesn't make a perfectly straight edge, but I like the way it looks, kind of a subtle wavy edge,so I leave it as it is, but if you wanted to you could edge it in sc.
I also like this stitch pattern for dishcloths because it is quite solid, but not too thick to get into small places. You can also do this stitch by stitching into the chain loop rather than into the ch 1 space. I just think it's easier to go into the space, and it makes the stitch a little more solid.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
I tried to block this one with spray starch and it didn't work out very well. the picture is lousy, but I think the general idea is there. This pattern is suitable for a beginner.
I used size 3 thread and a C hook. My flake is about 4 inches from point to point.
Stitches used:
ch chain
ss slip stitch
dc double crochet
tc triple crochet
Ch 5, join with ss to form a ring.
Round 1:Ch 3, dc into ring, ch 2, *2 dc into ring, ch 2*, Repeat from * to* 4 more times,join to top of first ch3.(You should have 12 dc and 6 ch 2 spaces.)
Round 2:Ss to first ch 2 space,ch 3, dc, ch2, tc, ch2, 2 dc all into first ch 2 space, in each of the other ch 2 spaces work the following: 2dc, ch2, 1 tc, ch2, 2dc. Join to top of first ch 3.
Round 3: ss to first ch 2 space, *Ch 7, ss into fourth ch from hook, ch 4, ss into next ch 2 space.Ss in next 2 DC.Ss in space between the next 2 DC and ch 3, join with ss to same space.SS in next 2 dc and into next ch 2 sp.*, repeat from * to* until you get back to the beginning.
Finish off. Stiffen and block.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
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