Dark Chocolate Scarf

This scarf works well for a man, since it isn't at all lacy.

This isn't by any means an original stitch pattern. I've seen it or something very similar in several patterns.

I apologize for the lousy picture. I tried to get a close up picture to show how nice this simple stitch pattern looks. It kind of reminds me of frozen waffles. Eventually I will get a better picture and replace this one, but I don't seem to be able to get one today.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn (I used one 6 oz skein of TLC Essentials in dark brown, to make a scarf that measures about 7 inches wide by 5 feet long.)
size K hook (6.5 mm)

Gauge; doesn't matter
My scarf came out about 7 inches wide. I worked the scarf quite loosely.

Stitches used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
sc2tog - single crochet two together (insert hook in 1st sc, draw up loop, insert hook in next sc, draw up loop, put loop of yarn around hook, and draw through all three loops on hook)

Chain 22 loosely(or any even numberof chains depending on the width you want)

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across (21 sc) (pattern works on any uneven number of stitches)

Row 2: ch 1,* sc2tog in next 2 sc, ch 1*, repeat from *to* until you get to the last stitch, sc in last stitch.

Row 3 and following rows: ch 1, *sc2tog using the sc and the ch 1 loop from the previous row as the two stitches that you sc together, ch 1* repeat from * to * until you get to the last stitch, sc in last stitch.

Continue row 3 until the scarf is as long as you want it to be.

Last row: sc in each stitch and ch 1 loop across. (21 sc.)

This doesn't make a perfectly straight edge, but I like the way it looks, kind of a subtle wavy edge,so I leave it as it is, but if you wanted to you could edge it in sc.


I also like this stitch pattern for dishcloths because it is quite solid, but not too thick to get into small places.
You can also do this stitch by stitching into the chain loop rather than into the ch 1 space. I just think it's easier to go into the space, and it makes the stitch a little more solid.


Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Ribbed Dishcloth

Ribbed Dishcloth

This dishcloth has rows of ribbing to give it a little texture, so it works well for scrubbing.

My picture isn't very good, but it gives you an idea of the texture.

Finished size: about 10 inches wide x 11 inches tall

Materials:

Sugar and cream twists or any other WW cotton yarn, about 2 ounces

Size J hook

Stitches used:

Ch = chain

Sc = single crochet

Hdc =half double crochet

Fphdc =front post half double crochet

Bphdc =back post half double crochet

Pattern:

Chain 30

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. (29 sc)

Row 2: ch 2 (does not count as stitch) hdc in each stitch across

Row 3: Repeat row 2

Row 4: ch 1, sc in first 2 stitches, +Fphdc around post of next stitch, Bphdc around post of next stitch+ repeat from + to + ending with FPHDC, until you get to the last two stitches, sc in last two stitches (29 stitches).

Repeat rows 2 to 4, six times. Your dishcloth should measure around 9 ½ inches, and you should have 7 Front post/back post rows.

Last row: ch 1, sc in each st across (29 stitches).

(optional) Work a row of sc around the entire dishcloth, placing 3 sc in each corner.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Another Simple snowflake

I tried to block this one with spray starch and it didn't work out very well. the picture is lousy, but I think the general idea is there. This pattern is suitable for a beginner.

I used size 3 thread and a C hook. My flake is about 4 inches from point to point.

Stitches used:

ch chain

ss slip stitch

dc double crochet

tc triple crochet

Ch 5, join with ss to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3, dc into ring, ch 2, *2 dc into ring, ch 2*, Repeat from * to* 4 more times, join to top of first ch3. (You should have 12 dc and 6 ch 2 spaces.)

Round 2: Ss to first ch 2 space, ch 3, dc, ch2, tc, ch2, 2 dc all into first ch 2 space, in each of the other ch 2 spaces work the following: 2dc, ch2, 1 tc, ch2, 2dc. Join to top of first ch 3.

Round 3: ss to first ch 2 space, *Ch 7, ss into fourth ch from hook, ch 4, ss into next ch 2 space. Ss in next 2 DC. Ss in space between the next 2 DC and ch 3, join with ss to same space. SS in next 2 dc and into next ch 2 sp.*, repeat from * to* until you get back to the beginning.

Finish off. Stiffen and block.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Tagged

Marie Anne challenged me to a 6th picture post.
The sixth folder in my picture file only has 5 pictures, so I will post that one. Its a dishcloth that I made recently.
Here is how I made it. This isn't much of a pattern, just a way of makeing a thinner stretchy crochet fabric.
Chain 29. (or any uneven number to get the width you want)
Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. (28 SC)
Row 2: Ch1, sc in first st, * sc in FLO of next stitch, in BlO of next stitch* repeat from * to * until you get to the last stitch, sc in last st.
Continue with row 2 until you dishcloth is the size you want.
Finish with a row of sc through both loops to make a more solid ending row.

If I was a little more ambitious, I would have added a single crochet border all around.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Toddler or Small child slippers

Size: can be made to fit from about age 2 to age 4

Materials: Worsted weight yarn

H hook

Stitches used:

Ch (chain)

Hdc (Half double crochet)

Dc (double crochet)

Sc (single crochet)

Ss (slip stitch)

Slippers are made starting at the toe. The first part is made in the round and then you will be turning at the end of each row to form the ankle opening. Beginning chains count as first stitch in all rows. Slippers can be made to fit a longer foot by working row 7 once or twice more. You could also work an extra round 3. The slippers are designed to come up toward the top of the instep, so they will stay on little feet better.

Chain 4, and ss into first ch to form a ring.

Row 1: Ch 2 , 8 hdc in ring, join to top of beginning chain 2 with ss. (9 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each stitch around, join to top of beginning ch 3 with ss (18 dc)

Row 3-6: Ch 3, turn, Dc in each stitch around, join to top of beginning chain 3 with ss. (18 DC)

The following rows are no longer worked in rounds.

Row 7-10: Ch 2, turn, DC in next 13 stitches (14 DC)

Form heel shaping:

Row 11: Dc in next 4 st, * dc decrease in next 2 stitches*, repeat from * to * once, DC in last 5 st (12 st)

Row 12: Ch 2, turn, Dc in next 3 stitches, *dc decrease in next 2 stitches * , repeat from * to * once, Dc in last 4 stitches.

Join top two corners of slipper with ss,

Row 13 and 14: Ch 1, sc evenly around ankle of slipper, join to first sc with ss.

You can work an extra round or two of row 13 to make the slipper come up higher on the ankle.

Fasten off leaving enough length to sew back of slipper together. Weave in ends and finish.

To make the slipper a little larger add another repeat or two of row 7.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Textured Stripes Purse

Textured Stripes Purse

This purse is worked in rounds. The different stitches used in the various rounds result in monotone stripes appearing because the stitches are a different texture. This purse can be made to be a cross body bag, a shoulder bag, or a handbag. It can easily be made shorter, and even smaller in diameter, by decreasing the beginning chain by multiples of 3.

Materials:

Nylon Crochet yarn in taupe and black (I used a little over one spool of taupe and a smaller amount of black)
G hook
Stitch markers
2 D rings
Large button for closure
Tapestry needle
Fabric for lining, basic sewing supplies (optional)

This pattern will work with any yarn, used with appropriate hook.

Gauge: not important, finished size may vary depending on yarn and hook used. The body of my bag is about 10 inches by 10 inches

Stitches used:
Ch (chain)
Sc (single crochet)
Ss (slip stitch)
Dc (double crochet)
St (stitch)
FLO (front loop only)

Notes: mark the first sc of each round just to make it easier to see where you started. Each row will be joined to it’s beginning st with a ss.

Pattern:

Ch 31

Bottom of bag:
Round 1: sc in second ch from hook (mark this stitch), sc in each ch across.(30 sc), place 1 extra sc in last ch, sc across other side of chain. Place 1 extra sc in last ch, join with ss to beginning sc.

Round 2: ch 1, sc in each sc, around, placing 3 sc in marked sc and 3 sc in last sc before joining. Join to 1^st sc of round with ss. (66 sc)

Round 3: repeat round 2, placing 3sc in each end to make a smooth turn. (70 sc)

Round 4: repeat round 3 (74 sc)

Round 5: repeat round 3 (78 sc)

If your stitch count is off, don’t worry. You will need a multiple of 3 to make the pattern work out, but the pattern doesn’t start until round 16, so you can add or subtract a stitch or two to make it work. It won’t show on the finished project.

Begin sides:

Round 6: Sc around in FLO of each stitch (78 sc.) Join with ss in beginning sc.
Round 7 – 11: sc around, join with ss in beginning sc.

Join black.

Round 12 and 13: Repeat round 7.

Join taupe.

Round 14: Repeat round 7.

Round 15: Ch 3, (counts as DC), dc in same st, 1 dc in next st, sc in next st, +2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, sc in next st+ repeat from + to + around. Join with ss in top of beginning ch 3.

Round 16: Ch 1, sc in top of each of the next 2 dc, sc in sc, +sc next 2 dc together, sc in next dc, sc in sc+ repeat from + to + around, join with ss in top of first sc. (78 sc)

Round 17: Repeat round 7

Round 18-20: Repeat rounds 15 to 17.

Rounds 21-23: Repeat round 7. (78 sc)

Round 24: ch 1, sc in same st, + dc in next st, sc in next st + around, end with a dc in last st. Join with ss in top of first sc.

Round 25: ch 3, +sc in next st, dc in next st, + repeat from + to + around, end with sc in last st, join to top of beginning ch 3 with a ss

Round 26-29: Repeat round 24 and 25

Round 30 –38: Repeat round 7. (78 sc)

Round 34-39: repeat rounds 15 to 17 twice.

Rounds 40-41: repeat round 7. (78 sc)

Join black.

Round 42-43. repeat round 7 (78 sc)

Join taupe.

Round 44 and 45: sc around (78 sc)

Round 46: Mark the middle of the front and the back of the purse.

Sc to the marked middle back st, and into the marked stitch,. ch 3, sc into the 2^nd and 3^rd ch from the hook, ss into the side of the last sc you made on the main part of the purse, (you have formed a tab to sew the button onto), then continue to sc in each st around until you get to one stitch before the marker that marks the middle of the front part of the purse. Ch 2, skip the 3 stitches at center front, (this will form a button-hole) continue to sc around until you get to where you started the round. Join with a ss to the beginning sc.

Fasten off.

Begin working the side shapes for the handles.

Mark the stitch on both outside edges of the bag.

Working from the wrong side of the bag, join taupe to the 5^th stitch before the marked side stitch.

Row 1: sc in that stitch and in the next 10 stitches. You have stitched 5 stitches on either side of the marked stitch and in the marked stitch (11 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across (11 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, sc in first st, sc 2 together, sc in next 5 stitches, sc 2 together, sc in last st

( 9 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across (9 st)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sc 2 together, sc in next 3, sc 2 together, sc in last st. (7 sc)

Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across (7 st))

Row 7: Ch1 , turn, sc in first st, sc 2 together, sc in next st, sc 2 together, sc in last st (5 sc)

Row 8: sc across (5 st)

Fasten off.

Repeat for other side.

Join black with a ss and sc around the entire bag, placing one sc in the sides of each of the rows of the raised sides, and one sc in each st around. Work the sc for the button hole around the chain rather than into the chain.

Handles;

Using taupe, make a chain the length that you want the handles to be. Remember that the handles will stretch some.

Row 1: Sc into the second ch from the hook and sc to the end.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn and sc across again. Fasten off.

Join black with a ss in the first sc of one of the long sides of the handle and sc across. Fasten off. Repeat for the other side.

To assemble.

Attach a D-ring to each side of the purse body, by folding over the side tabs and sewing them down over the flat part of the D ring.

Attach handles to D ring using same method.

Sew button to center of button tab.

I made a lining by simply measuring the bag and cutting two rectangle to fit (plus a little extra for seam allowance). I sewed up 3 sides of the rectangle and hemmed the open side. I then hand sewed the lining into the bag. I added a pocket to my lining before I sewed the rectangles together.

Here is a picture of the bag partially finished. It shows the stripes better:

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

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Snowy Day Moebius Neckwarmer/Hood

Snowy Day Moebius Neckwarmer/Hood

I like the concept of a moebius strip, kind of a circle without an end, so a few years ago I made a moebius shawl. I started to make a moebius scarf this year, and it turned into this.

This pattern will work with any hook size and yarn.

I used 2 skeins of Red Heart Soft yarn and a J hook.

Stitches used:

Ch (chain)

Sc (single crochet)

Dc (double crochet)

Pattern:

Chain an even number of stitches. The chain should fit around your face loosely if you want to use it as a hood as well.(My chain was about 32 inches long.) If you just want a neck warmer, make a chain that fits comfortably over your head, or even larger if you want a looser cowl.

Join the ends of the chain together with a ss, being careful not to twist the chain.

Row 1: Chain 3, sc in same chain as joining, skip a stitch, + dc, sc both in next chain, skip a chain+ repeat from + to+ until you get back to where you started. Last chain should be unworked. Skip that chain and turn the work so that you can continue the pattern in the other side of the foundation chain. Continue in pattern +dc, sc both in same chain, skip a chain+ until you get back to the first ch 3. You should have one chain left unworked at the end. Skip that chain and join with a ss to the beginning ch 3.

You have worked one row, but it will look like you have done two rows because you have worked into both sides of the foundation chain. The turn creates the twist. After a few rounds you should clearly see a twist developing, although it should be apparent right away.

Row 2 and following: Ch 3 and turn. (you will be working in the opposite direction from the last row.) sc in same stitch as beginning ch 3, skip a stitch, +dc, sc both into next stitch, skip a stitch+ repeat from + to + until you get back to beginning ch 3. Join to top of ch 3 with a ss. Again you have worked around both sides of the neckwarmer.

Turn and work in the opposite direction for each row. All stitches are worked into the DC’s of the previous row, and the sc’s are always skipped.

Continue with row 2 until the neckwarmer is the size you want it to be. You can make this just big enough to be a neck warmer or you can make it longer and pull it up over your head as a hood.

I finished mine with a row of single crochet, but this is optional.

My 20 year old daughter suggested that this would make a nice accessory worn with a sweater.

If you made this larger it would work as a cowl, or still larger and it could be a shawl or capelet.

You can make this with other stitch patterns, as long as they are reversible. Half of your stitches will be upside down in the finished item. Some stitch patterns won’t require you to turn your work at the end of every row, and you can just keep working in the same direction.

For this fit, I started with a chain about 32 inches long, approximately 170 chains the way I crochet. Mine is about 14 inches in height, which is where I ran out of yarn. If you just want it for a scarf, 7 inches is ample.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.