Nate's Afghan

I noticed that I hit 50 followers a few days ago.  This was a totally amazing thing to me, so I decided that I needed to get to work on another pattern.  I had already made this afghan for a Christmas gift, so I took it out of its wrapping so I could write out the pattern.

I apologize for my lousy photography.  I could blame the gloomy weather, but the truth is that I have a hard time getting good pictures, even when the lighting is perfect.

Nate’s Afghan

Link to Pattern PDF file

I made this as a gift for my son.  I wanted to make a warm, masculine afghan that I could finish quickly.

Afghan is worked holding two strands of yarn together.  You could certainly use a single strand of yarn with a smaller hook, but your afghan would be smaller.

Size:  mine turned out to be about 54 inches square.

Difficulty:  advanced beginner

Materials:

WW yarn in two colors.  I used  approximately 1500 yards of yarn (a little over 4 skeins of  Carons Simply Soft and just under 4 skeins of Bernat Super Value)  I used black and a medium shade of green

Size N hook

Yarn needle

Abbreviations used:

FDC- foundation double crochet

DC- double crochet

Ch-chain

BPDC  back post double crochet

FPDC  front post double crochet

St- stitch

Sc- single crochet

ss-slip stitch

Special stitch:  DC two together:  wrap yarn around hook once, insert into first stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn around hook,pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through remaining three loops on hook  (if you usually do this stitch differently, do it your own way, it will look fine)

Pattern:

NOTE:  Ch 2 always counts as the first stitch

Every row has 112 stitches

Turn at the end of every row

Ridges created by FPDC and BPDC should always be on the front of the afghan. 

First row:

FDC 112  (or make 112 DC into a chain., I hate working into a chain, so I like to use the FDC method)

To start with a chain, Ch 114 and dc into 3rd ch from the hook and every chain to make 112 DC's in your foundation row.

Row 2 and 3:  Ch 2, dc to end

Row 4:  (begin mesh pattern)

Ch 2, Dc in next 6 stitches, **ch1, skip a stich, DC in next stitch, ch 1 skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC in next st, ch 1, DC in next 8 stitches**  Repeat ** to ** to the end.  (yes the beginning has 7 DC, but you end with 8 DC)  You should have 8 mesh sections in this row, each with 4 ch 1 spaces.

For rows 5 to 10 .  Count the ch 1 spaces as a stitch, and work the DC’s into the space into the space.

Row 5:  Ch 2, Dc in next 8 stitches, including the first ch 1 space of the previous row, ** ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space, Ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into Ch 1 space, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC in next 10 stitches, including last ch 1 space of previous row**,  repeat  to section in between **’s   to end, there will be 8 DC in the last solid section.  You will have 3 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section.

Row 6: Ch 2, DC in next 9 stitches, **ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, DC into next 12 stitches,** repeat stitches between **’s to the end.  The row will end with 9 DC’s.  There will be 2 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section.

Row 7:  Ch 2, DC into next 10 stitches, ** ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, skip a stitch,  Dc into next 14 stitches**  Repeat stitches between **’s to end.  The row will end with 10 DC’s.  You will have 1 ch space in each mesh section.

Row 8:  repeat row 6 pattern  (you won’t have as many ch 1 spaces to work into, but the pattern is the same)  (2 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 9: Repeat  Row 5  (3 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 10:  repeat row 4  (4 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 11:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 12:  Ch 2, BPDC across  (this will create a ridge on the front side of the afghan)

Row 13:  Ch 2, FPDC across

Row 14: Ch 2, DC across

Row 15:  Ch 2, **Skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, Working around stitch just made, DC in skipped stitch**   (crossed double crochet made)  Repeat stitches between **’s to 2^nd last stitch from the end, DC in last stitch

Row 16-18:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row 19:  Ch 2,  **DC two together, ch 1, ** Repeat stitches between **’s to last stitch,  DC in last stitch.

Row20-23:  repeat row 18, using the ch 1 space as a stitch.

Row 24-26:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row: 27:  repeat row 15

Row 28-29:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 30:  Repeat row 12  (BPDC row)

Row 31:  repeat row 13  (FPDC row)

Row 32: ch 2, Dc across

Row 33: repeat row 15  (crossed doubles)

Row 34 and 35:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 36:  repeat row 12 (BPDC row)

Row 37:  repeat row 13 (FPDC row)

Row 38:  ch 2, DC across

Row 39:  repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)

Row 40 to 42:  Ch 2, dc across

Row 43-47:  Repeat rows 19-23

Row 48 - 50:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row 51:  Repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)

Row 52 and 53:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 54:  Repeat row 12 (BPDC row)

Row 55:  Repeat row 13 (FPDC row)

Row 56:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 57 – 63:  repeat rows 4 to 10 (mesh pattern)

Row 64 –66:  Ch 2, Dc across

This finishes the main body of the afghan.  I finished mine with 2 rows of sc worked around the entire thing.  You could quit now if you want. If you plan to add a border, don’t cut the yarn, just continue onto the border.

SC border:  Ch 1, turn, sc across.  Place 3 stitches in the corner and continue single crocheting along the side of the afghan, evenly placing stitches into ends of the rows. When you get to the corner, place 3 stitches in the corner stitch, sc across the end, and continue around the e=next side, placing 3 stitches in each corner.  Join round with a slip stitch,  ch 1 and go around again.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

I try to get the same number of sc’s down each side, so that the finished afghan looks nice and even.  I don’t think one more or less makes much difference, but a few extra stitches down one side as compared with the other side can make the afghan look lop-sided.

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Easy Baby Shoes

Baby Shoes

Difficulty: easy

Size: approx 3 ½ inch length. 

Could easily be made larger by using a larger hook and regular WW yarn

Stitches used:

Ch chain

SS slip stitch

HDC half double crochet

DC double crochet

Special stitches:

I have described the technique I used for these stitches for the benefit of those that are not familiar with them.  My way is very likely not the accepted way, since I just do whatever seems to work for me.  Feel free to do these stitches the way you are used to doing them.  It will work out just fine.

DC 2 together   (yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on shook, yarn over, pull through last 3 loops on hook)

HDC 2 together (yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, and pull through all 5 loops on  hook.)

Materials:

2 colors of light worsted weight yarn  (I used TLC, which is 3 ply. It seems similar to Simply Soft) (the second color is only used for the flower, you could use a button or another embellishment instead)

4 mm (size G) hook 

yarn needle

 

Ch 11.

Sole:

Round 1:

HDC in 3^rd ch from hook, and in next 7 ch.

7 HDC’s in last ch.

Now begin working down other side of the chain, working into the free loops.

HDC in next 7 ch.

5 HDC in last ch, join to top of first HDC.  (27 stitches)

Round 2:

Ch 2, (counts as 1^st stitch), HDC in same space, 2 HDC’s in next stitch, HDC in next 6 st, DC in next 2 stitches, 2 Dc in each of the next 5 stitches, DC in next 2 stitches, HDC in next 7 st,,  2 HDC in each of the next 3 stitches, join with ss to front loop of the top of the beginning ch 2.  (37 stitches)

Begin sides:

Round 1:

Ch 1, Sc in same space, sc in FLO of next 8 stitches, HDC in FLO of next 5 stitches’ DC in FLO of  next 6 stitches, HDC in FLO of next 5 stitches, sc in last 12 stitches, join to first sc with SS.  (37 stitches)

Round 2:

Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 7 stitches, HDc in next 3 stitches, Dc in next st, DC 2 together x 5, DC in next st, HDC in next 3 stitches, sc in last 11 stitches, join with SS to top of first sc.

Round 3:

Ch 1, SC in same space, and in next 10 stitches, HDC in next 3 stitches, DC 2 together x 2, HDC in next 3 stitches, SC in last11 stitches, join to top of first SC with SS

Round 4, Ch 2, HDC in next 10 stitches,   DC 2 together x 4, HDC in next 9 stitches, HDC 2 together, join with SS to top of first Ch 2

Round 5, Ch 1, turn, so that you are working around the shoe from the outside, SS in same space in each stitch around, ( 23 stitches)  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Flower:

Ch 4, join with SS to form a rind.  Ch 1 and make 5 sc in ring. Work over the tail of the yarn.   Join to first SC with SS.

Pull on starting yarn to tighten ring,  Ch 3, join with SS to next sc, (makes a petal),  repeat around so that you have 5 CH 3 petals, join last Ch 3 to first sc.  Fasten off and weave in one end. Use other end to sew flower to front of shoe, before weaving in that end.

You could use a cute button or a tiny bow to embellish the shoe if you prefer.  You can also change the look of the shoe by doing the SS row (last row) in a contrasting color. 

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.



PDF Download

Lots more flowers in bloom

My hydrangeas are exceptionally prolific this year.

Here are endless summer (pink) and Annabelle hydrangeas (white). The Annabelle hydrangeas are one of the most carefree flowers I've ever grown. I cut a bunch of them every fall and put them in vases to dry. They turn a beautiful ivory color and I keep them all winter.

A Walk in the Garden

Sweet William
Coreopsis
I can practically smell the sweet scent of this pink peony.

Still more blooms

Lots more things in bloom this week. I didn't get pictures of all of them, but here are a few. More poppies, red ones this time.
A purple iris. these are taller than the yellow ones I have, and have much skinnier leaves. the leaves are almost grass like.They don't multiply as quickly as the yellow ones either.
This is known to me as Jupiter's Beard. I can't remeber what the real name of it is.
A flowering shrub, Wiegella.
The first rose of the season.

More things blooming!

This is a pink variety of lily of the valley. I only planted white ones, but a few years ago, some pink ones appeared among the white ones, and each year there seem to be a few more. They smell just as good as the white ones.


This plant goes by the unlikely name of trailing pink soapwart. The plant is only about 6 inches tall and is literally covered with these tiny pink flowers.

This is some sort of perennial salvia. The flowers are a very clear shade of blue.

This is a rhododendron that we planted when we moved into our house about 30 years ago. It is taller than the house. The color is more pink than this picture shows.

Crockpot Spaghetti Sauce

I've decided to share one of my lazy day recipes today. I don't like to cook much, but I do like to eat well, so over the years I've collected a number of easy but tasty recipes. This is one I made up myself, and its been very well received. This makes quite a lot of sauce and freezes well. It can easily be doubled if your crockpot is big enough. I serve it over whole grain pasta, with a big salad.

Here's what you need:

1 pound Italian sausage
1 medium to large onion, chopped
small amount of olive oil
2 29 oz cans of crushed or diced tomatoes (I prefer crushed or a can of each)
1 29 oz can of tomato sauce
1 6 oz can of tomato paste
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp brown sugar
1 and 1/2 tsp dried minced garlic (or 2 to 3 times that much fresh garlic)
1 and 1/2 tsp each of dried basil, oregano and salt
3/4 tsp dried thyme

Brown sausage and onion in hot olive oil until sausage is browned and onion is soft. Drain well and add to crockpot. Stir in all other ingredients. Cover and cook on low setting for 6 to 7 hours. Discard bay leaves before serving.

Variations and Notes:

I add a 1/2 tsp of dried fennel seeds if I have them, but not everyone likes the pronounced licorice taste of it, so I only add it if it's just my family.

If you want a blander sauce you could use ground beef or turkey instead of Italian sausage, and maybe cut back a bit ont he herbs and other seasonings. If you like your food quite spicy, add some dried crushed red pepper flakes, (up to one tsp). It's been my experience that a little crushed red pepper goes a long ways!

If you want to use fresh herbs, you will need two to three times the amount of dried herbs. You can use two 15 oz cans of tomato product in place of each 29 oz can.
I've never tried this next one, but I would think that 2 or three tsp of commercial Italian seasoning could substitute for the oregano, basil and thyme.

I sometimes add a shredded carrot or some shredded zucchini to the sauce to give my family a few more veggies in their diets. Mushrooms and green peppers, (I'd cook the green pepper with the onions and sausage), would also be good, but the picky eaters around here won't eat them.

Look at What's Blooming!!

I went for a walk around our property today, and was pleasantly surprised to find so many things in bloom.

This is a surprise plant. It's a variety of Lamium, and it is one that I discarded in the woods last year. I like the vari-colored leaves and it's trailing habit for my porch pots, and I dumped the entire planter in the woods when I cleaned up last fall. The soil around this plant is still a flower pot shaped hump. I think I'll dig it up and put it in a pot again this year.








Irises and lilacs are among my favorites. I received the yellow irises from a friend and they've multiplied quite a bit. This one is growing at the edge of the woods. I suspect I must have gotten tired of planting them and tossed it there.



Here's my first oriental poppy of the year. I grew this one and about a dozen more poppy plants from a packet of seed I bought for 10 cents at a yard sale a few years ago.



This is lunaria, a biennial. It's pretty, but a nuisance plant, self seeding with abandon. One plant can turn into dozens in just a few years. I pull most of the seedlings out, but I think its pretty, so I always leave a few and resign myself to the task of keeping it from taking over. It's the one that produces those pretty dried seed pods that are round and silvery, hence the common name, silver dollar or money plant.



This is a redbud tree in bloom. My father in law grew it from seed, and its growing at the edge of the wooded area around our house.





These beautiful blue and white Columbines are one of the most carefree flowers I ever planted. They grow without any pampering whatsoever. I just tossed a few seed where I hoped they would grow, and they did. The only problem is that they do self seed quite badly. No problem though, I just dig up the plants and give them away or plant them elsewhere. If I'm really on the ball, I can solve the problem by taking the seed heads off the plants before they open. These plants produce tons of seeds, many of which I've collected and given away.

The dogwood trees are also in bloom as is some of the wild honeysuckle, but I didn't feel like fighting my way into the woods to get their pictures.

May Day baby Blanket

This is a relatively easy blanket, which I think should be achievable by an advanced beginner. It takes a little practice to get proficient at the crossed doubles, (mostly just figuring out which is the next stitch to skip, since the crossed Dc pulls the stitches that they have been worked into, close together), but once you get it, they are easy.

This blanket can be adapted to be a full size afghan or it can be made smaller. See end of pattern for some ideas on how to change the size.

Gauge: unimportant

I crochet somewhat loosely. My blanket will be about 42 inches square.

Materials:

WW yarn, (I used 26-28 oz of yarn.)

Crochet hook size K

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Any yarn will work, just use an appropriately sized hook, size will vary with yarn used.

Stitches used:

St-stitch

ch-chain

sc-single crochet

dc-double crochet

Crossed doubles

fpdc-Front post double crochet (instead of working into the top of the dc in the previous row, you work around the post of the stitch from the front of it)

bpdc-Back post double crochet (same as above, but you are working the stich from the back of the post of the dc from the previous row)

Front and back post stitches form what I call “fake cables” or ridges on the front of your work. I like them because they are an easy way to add some texture and interest to crocheted fabric.

Note that all rows will have 120 stitches in them. The afghan is made in one piece. However, I have divided the pattern into sections to make it a little easier to keep track of. Do not end off at the end of a section, keep crocheting onto the next one. The afghan is made as follows:

section 1, section 2, section 1, section 2, section 1.

Pattern:

Chain 121.

Section 1:

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. (120 sc) this is the right side)

Row 2: ch 2 (always counts as first dc), dc in each stitch across.

Row 3: ch 2, bpdc in each st across until you reach the turning ch, dc into top of turning ch

Row 4: ch 2, fpdc in each st across until you reach the turning ch, dc into top of turning ch

Row 5: ch 2, dc in each st across, last stitch will be into the top of the turning ch

Row 6: Ch 2, * skip a stitch, dc into the next stitch. Now, working around the stitch you just made, dc into the skipped stitch. (your crochet hook will be in front of the dc you just made)* (These two stitches made one set of crossed doubles) repeat from * to * until you get to the turning chain. Dc into the top of the turning chain.

Row 7: Repeat row 2, finishing with a dc in the top of the turning chainrow)

Row 8: ch, sc in each st across, finishing with a sc in top of turning ch

Row 9. Repeat row 7. (it’s a DC row)

Row 10: Repeat row 6. (crossed doubles)

Row 11 –13: Repeat rows 7 to 9.

Row 14: Repeat row 6. (crossed doubles)

Row 15: Repeat row 8. (sc row)

Row 16: repeat row 2. (double crochet row)

Row 17: repeat row 3. (bpdc row)

Row 18: repeat row 4 (fpdc row)

Row 19: repeat row 8 (sc row)

Section 2:

Rows 20-32: ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st * repeat from * to * to end of row (end this section with a wrong side row)

The rest of the afghan is repeats of the previous sections.

Rows 33-51: repeat section 1

Row 52 to 64: repeat section 2

Rows 65-81: repeat section 1

Do not cut yarn. Work a sc border all around the blanket, placing 3 sc into each corner and spacing stitches evenly across the ends of the rows. I try to make the same number of stitches in each end, so that the finished blanket turns out nice and even. I finished with a row of reverse HDC. (*HDC in a stitch, ch 1, skip a stitch* and repeat from *to*) worked all around but from left to right, rather than the usual right to left. This makes a nice rope like border.

This blanket can easily be made larger or smaller. Start with an even number of sc in the first row.

To make the blanket narrower, you could subtract some rows from section 2, (making sure to end with a wrong side row), or leave out rows 11 to 13 in section 1. This would give you a panel with two rows of crossed doubles in between the fake cables created by the fpdc's and bpdc's.

To make it wider, you could either add panels, add more rows to section 2, add some extra rows into one of the panels, or make up additions of your own.

I purposely didn’t add any very lacy stitches, because I wanted the finished product to be suitable for either a boys or a girls blanket.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

A Winter Walk

We've had unusually nice weather for the past week or so. Sunshine in winter can be rare here, but it has been abundant lately. On Saturday, Andy and I went for a walk on a part of the White Pine Trail which runs north from Rockford, along the Rogue River. There were quite a few people out on the trail, biking and walking. The trail was clear, although there is still a fair amount of snow on the ground.
The sky was a beautiful shade of blue, and the river was sparkling in the sunlight. We could hear the birds singing and the honking of Canada Geese. We only saw two geese on the river, but it sounded like there was a whole flock somewhere around. There was also a lone mallard swimming lazily around and some tiny animal that appeared to be playing in the water, running around on the shore of a little "island" in the middle of the river and then getting into the water to swim in circles for a few minutes. We forgot to bring binoculars, so we have no idea what it was. We were wondering if it could be a baby otter or muskrat. It seems like it might be a little early in the season for animal babies yet, though.

It's still winter, but....

For Christmas this year my son gave me an amaryllis bulb. I love watching things grow, so this was a great gift for me. I planted it on Dec 26th and it grew like a weed. By the end of January it was 30 inches tall. On Valentines day the first two flowers appeared, and a couple of days later two more showed up. There is still a flower stalk that hasn't opened yet, so there should still be one or two more blooms.

Market Bag

This is a small size market bag that I made to use up some leftover WW cotton yarn. Laying flat, mine measures about 14 inches wide, by 15 inches long, excluding the handles. it is quite stretchy, so it will hold a fair amount.

Materials:
WW cotton yarn:
I used approx 6 - 7 oz variegated (it was the last of one of those 14 oz skeins of peaches and cream) and 2 oz. or so of a co-ordinating plain color
G and H hooks
4 stitch markers
yarn needle

Stitches used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet

Starting with variegated yarn and H hook:
ch 40.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (39 sc) Ch 1, turn.
row 2-10: SC in each ch across. (39 sc in each row) Ch 1 turn.

You will now begin working in rounds.
Row 11 and Round 1: Sc in each st across. When you reach the end of the row, turn work so that you can sc across the ends of the 11 sc rows. Do not ch 1. Do one sc in the end of each row. (11 sc) when you get to the other side, sc in the loose loops of the beginning chain. (39 sc) Make a sc in the other ends of the 11 sc rows. Join to the first sc of the round.
Round 12 - 15: Ch 1, Sc in each stitch around, join the stitches of each round to the beginning sc of that round. You should have 100 sc.
(Don't worry if you don't. As long as you have an even number of stitches when you get to the mesh part, the pattern will work. Actually, for that matter, you can always fudge a little in the first row to make it work, its only a market bag after all!)

If you want a larger solid bottom, just do more sc rounds, until the solid part is a high as you want it. I would probably have done more if I wasn't worried about running out of yarn.

Start mesh pattern, continue to work in rounds:
Round 16: Ch 4, (counts as first dc plus ch 1), skip a stitch, *DC in next st, ch 1. Skip a stitch * repeat from * to * around, join in third st of the beginning ch 4, slip stitch into the space created by the ch 4. (I don't know quite how to write that, it would be like slip stitching into the ch 1 space)

round 17-32: Ch 4, DC into next ch 1 space, ch 1, *DC into next ch 1 space, ch 1*, repeat from * to * around, join into 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, slip stitch into space created by the ch 4.

Again, you can add more rounds here to make the bag taller.

round 33-35:
Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join to beginning st
Fasten off.


Start handles:
Lay your bag down flat and mark the stitch on each side. Count out 12 stitches on either side of this stitch and place a marker in each of them. This should give you 25 stitches front and back between the markers.

Join contrasting yarn at a marker.

round 1: Sc from that marker around the side of the bag to the next marker. Ch 30. Skip the 25 stitches on the flat side of the bag, (it will be either the front or back depending on where you joined your yarn.) Sc into the next marked stitch and continue to the next marker. Ch 30 to make the other handles and join to the beginning sc with a slip stitch.

Round 2 - 6- Ch 1, sc in joining stitch and in each st and chain around (110 sc) Again it doesn't really matter if you have a different number of stitches.

At the end of round 6 fasten off.
Still using the H hook, do a round of SC around the inside (circle part) of the handles.

Using a G hook, do a round of sc around the inside of the handles and around the top of the bag. I found that using a smaller hook for this made a slightly less stretchy handle.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Once you have made one of these bags, you will find it very easy to make a larger bag using the same general idea.


Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Baby Blanket

Last summer I was gifted 2 skeins of variegated Red Heart soft yarn. I started out making it into a baby sweater, but it just didn't seem to look right. Since it was a gift to me, I wanted to turn it into something special. This is what I came up with. This blanket has been donated to the local pregnancy resource center.

The pattern is simply made up of 12 granny squares. I did 5 rounds of variegated, 3 rounds of white and 1 round of pink. After I sewed the squares together, I did a row of sc in pink around the entire thing, and finished it with a round of reverse HDC.
I like reverse HDC for edging blankets because it looks good, and is way easier than reverse sc.
If you have never used it, give it a try.
I do HDC, ch 1, skip a stitch, HDC in next st, ch 1, skip a stitch,etc. It is worked right to left, rather than the usual left to right.

This is the square pattern I used.

Check this out!! A give-away!/sorry, it's now over

Stephanie, over at this blog is giving away this cute apron that she made herself. Go check out her blog.