Round 1: Ch 3, (counts as a DC) and make 11 more DC in ring, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4, *sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4*. repeat from * to * around ending with ch 4. ss into top of first sc. You should have 6 ch 1 spaces and 6 ch 3 spaces.
Round 3: Ss into the first ch 1 space, *into the next ch 3 space work sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc, ss into next ch 1 space*. repeat from * to * around, end with ss in top of first ss.
Fasten off and work in ends.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
We spent the last week in the Great Smokey Mountains National Park area. Fall is such a gorgeous time of year to visit there.
The first two pictures were taken along the Gatlinburg bypass road, and the other two were taken in the park.
The second picture from the bottom, (the road through the trees) represents one of my favorite scenes. The road through the trees seems so peaceful, and I love the idea of not knowing what's beyond the bend.
The last picture is the view from a picnic area (Metcalf Bottoms) where we ate lunch one day. Even though it was cold and rainy here in Michigan it was 75 degrees and sunny in Tennessee that day.
Covered hangers keep your clothes from sliding onto the floor. This is easy to customize to any plastic hanger.
WW yarn Size G hook Plastic clothes hanger Yarn needle
Stitches used:
SS - slip stitch Ch – chain Dc – Double crochet
The beginning ch 2 represents a DC. All rounds are joined with a ss to the 2nd ch of the beginning ch.
I chain loosely, so I use a ch 2 to represent a DC in this pattern. If you wish, you can use a ch 3 to represent the beginning DC of each round. You will have to add a chain at the beginning of every round and join each round to the third chain of the beginning chain.
This pattern is a lattice design worked in rounds. Each round has 8 DC in it, and they are separated by spaces made of varying numbers of chains in order to make the cover fit around the hanger.
To begin each new round after round 2, ss to the next ch space.
Keep trying the cover on the hanger you are making it for and add chains as needed for the cover to fit. The fit should be snug. It took 13 rows to cover the hanger I used. I have two different brands of plastic hangers, but they are almost exactly the same size.
PATTERN This pattern covers half the hanger, so you will need to make 2.
Ch 4, join into ring with SS.
Round 1: Ch2, Dc into ring, Ch 1, + 2 DC into ring, ch 1 +, repeat x 2 from + to +. You should have 8 DC and 4 ch 1 spaces.
Round 2: Ss to space between first 2 dc, ch 3, + Dc into next space, ch 1 +, repeat from + to + around, join
Round 3 and 4: Ss to ch 1 space, ch 3, +dc into next ch 1 sp, ch 1+, repeat from + to + around, join.
Round 5 to 7: Work same as rounds 3 and 4, but increase every other chain space to 2 chains. You will have 8 dc’s with 8 spaces, 4 will be ch 2 spaces, 4 will be ch 1 spaces.
Rounds 8 to 10: Work same as round 5, except increase every chain space between the dc’s to 2 chains. You will still have 8 DC’s and you will have 8 ch 2 spaces.
Rounds 11-12:
Work same as previous rounds, but increase every other ch space to 3 chains.
Round 13: Work same as previous rows, but increase each ch space to 3 chains.
If this is too small for your hanger, just continue in pattern, adding chains to the spaces as needed for your hanger. Keep trying it on the hanger as you make the cover.
Make another half the same and fit them over the clothes hanger. Sew together down the middle. I sewed all the Dc’s together. I just wove the yarn through the chains to get to the next pair of DC’s. Alternatively, you could tie the two halves together on both sides of the hanger, at the top and bottom with yarn or ribbon. This would make it easier to remove the cover at a later time if you wanted to.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake. You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Ch 3, 7 HDC in 3rd ch from hook, join to top of beginning ch.(8 HDC)
Round 2:
Ch 2, Hdc in same st,2HDC in each st around, join to top of beginning ch. (16 HDC)
Rounds 3 to 6:
Ch 2, Hdc in each st around.(16 Hdc)
Start working back and forth in rows.4 stitches in the round will be left unworked.
Row 7:
Ch 2, Hdc in the next 11 stitches. (12 Hdc)
Row 8 and 9:
Ch 2, turn, Hdc in each st around(12 Hdc)
Row 10:
Ch2, turn, Hdc in next st, HDC 2 together 4 times, Hdc in last 2 stitches(8 HDC)
Now you will again work in rounds.
Round 11:
ch 1, turn.
You will be working along the ends of the rows just completed.
Make 6 sc evenly spaced across the ends of rows 7 to 10.
Sc in the 4 stitches left unworked from round 6, then make 6 more sc evenly spaced along the other ends of rows 7 to 10.
Join with a ss to the first sc on the other side.You will have a bootie shape with a slit in the heel.(16 sc)
Round 12:
Ch 2, HDC in each st aroundJoin with SS to top of beginning ch 2.(16 HDC)
Round 13:
(eyelet row)
Ch 3, skip a stitch, + Hdc in next st, ch 1, Skip a stitch +repeat from + to + around , join with SS to top of beginning ch (8 ch 1 spaces)
Round 14:
SS to a ch 1 space,ch 3, 2 dc in same space, make a 3 dc in each of the other ch 1 spaces, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3.
Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to weave down to the slit in the heel and sew it up.
Weave in ends.Thread a length of ribbon through the eyelets, or make a crocheted chain to use for a tie.
These booties can be made smaller by omitting a round, or larger by adding a round or row.They can be made taller by adding a row of sc or another shell row at the end.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
Join each round with a ss in top of the beginning chain.
Round 1:
Ch 4, 11 Dc in 4th ch from hook, join with ssto top of beginning ch.(12 DC)
Round 2:
Ch 3, Dc in same st , 2 dC on each st around., join with ss to top of beginning ch 3 (24 DC)
Round 3:
Ch 3, + 2 Dc in next st, DC in next st +repeat from + to+ , 1 more Dc in same st as beginning ch 3, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3.(36 DC)
Round 4:
Ch 3 and Dc in each st around, join with SS in top of beginning ch 3.(36 DC)
Round 5:
(this row still increases the diameter of the hat.)
SS to next st,ch 3, 2 more DC in same st, + skip a stitch, 3 DC in next st +,repeat from + to + around, join with SS in top of beginning ch 3. (18shells, each with 3 DC)
Round 6 to 12
SS to the center st of the next 3 DC group, do 3 DC in center stitch of each shell around.
Round 13:
Ch 2, HDC in next st and in each st around.
Fasten off.
Notes: You can easily make this hat bigger by adding some extra stitches in row 4.
Remember that row 5 increases the number of stitches again by 1/3, so don't add too many stitches. You need an even number of stitches in row 4 to make the pattern work.
You could also make the hat larger just by using a larger hook.
Add extra rows of shells to make hat taller.
If you want a turned up cuff add a few more rows of Hdc at the end.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
I saw a really cute snowman made from fabric yo-yo's the other day. I wondered if I could re-create it in crochet and this is the result.
First you will need to make at least 6 yo-yo's. These are three dimensional, similar to the kind that are made for use in quilts or for embellishing things, rather than the flat circles that I would consider a crocheted yo-yo.
This snowman would work in any size yarn; for example: thread would make a tiny ornament. Once you get the basic idea of how he is constructed you can easily make him taller, shorter, fatter, etc.
You could also make a Santa, by using red yarn for the yo's, maybe with a black center yo-yo for his belt. Add a Santa face and hat, put a buckle on the belt, embellish with some whiskers and you will have Santa Claus. A pumpkin is another idea that would work up really easily this way. I think it would even work to make an angel.
Pattern Gauge is unimportant.
First make 5 different size yo-yo's. You will need a total of 6, but two of them are the same size.
Materials -WW yarn in white, (I estimate that I used between 3 and 4 Oz), small amounts of black, orange, and blue
-H and G hooks
-buttons, beads or whatever you would like to use for embellishment
-small amount of white stuffing for head
-Yarn needle
-sewing needle and black thread (used to sew embellishments onto the snowman, you could glue them on instead)
Stitches used:
Ch -chain
SS -slip stitch
DC -double crochet
HDC -half double crochet
SC -single crochet
Special Stitches These are the way I did these techniques, not necessarily the correct way. You can use whatever method you like. Neatness and accuracy aren't that important here, since this won't show much.
DC 2 tog -Double crochet two together
Yarn over hook, insert into next stitch, Yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over hook, insert into next stitch, yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over, and pull through all loops on hook
HDC 2 tog -Half double crochet two together
Yarn over hook, insert into next stitch, yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over hook, insert in next stitch, yarn over hook, pull through all loops on hook.
Body of Snowman:
The body of the snowman is made up of yo-yos:
Use White yarn and H hook
Note: Start all DC rows with a Ch 3, start all HDC rows with a ch 2, (these count as stitches)
If a row is done in SC, start with a ch 1 and do a SC in the same stitch. In this case the ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
Finish all yo-yo's by gathering as directed in Yo-Yo 1.
Everything except the scarf is worked in rounds.
Yo-Yo 1 (make 2)
Leave a very long tail (say around 24 inches) on one of these to use for sewing the yo-yo's together. If you forget, don't worry about it, you'll just have to weave in an extra end!)
Ch 4 and form into a circle with a ss.
Round 1: Ch3 (counts as first DC( and do 11 more DC in the circle.) Join to top of beginning Ch 3 with SS (12 DC)
Round 2: Ch 3, Dc in same st, 2 DC in each st around Join to top of beginning Ch 3 with SS. (increase a stitch in every stitch) (24 DC)
Round 3: Ch 3, 2 DC in next st, *1 Dc in next st, 2 DC in next st* repeat from * to * around Join to top of Beginning CH 3 with SS (increase a stitch in every second stitch) (36 DC)
Round 4: Ch 3, DC in next st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around Join to top of beginning ch 3. (increase a stitch in every third stitch) (48 DC)
Now start decreasing:
Round 5 and 6: Ch 3, DC decrease over next two stitches around, until you get to the last st. Dc in that st, and join to the top of the beginning ch 3
Fasten off, leaving a tail 8 or 10 inches long. Thread this tail into a yarn needle and weave the yarn through the stitches of the last row. Pull together tightly to gather the yo-yo into a fluffy shape. If its not fluffly looking enough for you gather up a few random stitches from the previous row also. The gathered side is the top of the yo-yo.
You should have something that looks like a squashed ball, pretty flat on the bottom and sort of ruffly and wrinkly on the top.
Yo-Yo 2: (make 1)
Made the same as yo-yo 1 with the addition of one more increase row.
After round 4 do a row where you increase in every 4th stitch. (60 DC)
Do two decrease rows, same as rounds 5 and 6 of yo-yo 1.
Yo-Yo 3: (make 1)
Same as yo-yo 1, except use HDC in place of all DC's. Use HDC's to do decrease rows rather than DC decrease.
Yo-Yo 4:
Same as yo-yo I except:
Round 1 and 2: Do HDC's in place of all DC's
Round 3 and 4 : Do SC in place of DC's
do only one row of DC decreases before gathering.
Yo-Yo 5:
Same as y0-yo 1 except:
Do round 1 Same as yo-yo one.
Round 2: Use Sc in place of DC
Do one decrease row using DC stitch.
This should give you 6 yo-yos, in 5 different sizes.
Fasten off and weave in all ends except for the long tail that you left for sewing the yo-yo's together. To assemble the snowman's body from the yo-yo's stack them in this order, starting from the bottom and working up to the snowman's neck:
#1, 2,1,3,4,5. The largest yo-yo is second from the bottom and they get progressively smaller as they go up. If you wanted to, you could make an additional yo-yo #3 and use it as the bottom yo-yo. This would give a more rounded silhouette to the snowman. The bottom yo-yo should have the long tail for joining the yo-yos together.
To join them together, thread the long tail onto your yarn needle. Pull the yarn up through the center of all the yo-yo's. when you get to the top, turn around and go back down to the bottom. Make sure you catch some strands of the top yo-yo before you go back down. You can either fasten off or repeat this step to make the joining a little more secure.
I forgot to leave a long tail, so I just brought a long strand of yarn up through the yo-yo's back down again and then I tied the ends together and tucked them into the bottom yo-yo.
One time up and down seemed secure enough to me, but my snowman is just going to sit on a shelf.
Here's what the snowman should look like so far
HEAD
Use white yarn, and G hook.
Chain 3, join with SS to form circle.
Round 1: Chain 2, 9 HDC's in circle.Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS. (10 HDC's)
Round 2: Ch 2, HDC in same st, 2 HDC's in each st around Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS. (20 HDC's)
(If you want a larger head do another increase row, increasing in every 2nd stitch as in yo-yo one, before continuing. My snowman's head was too big, when I did this. I actually still think my snowman's head is a little too big, but this is a matter of personal preference. You could make it smaller by doing 10 HDC's in round 1 rather than 12)
Rounds 3 to 7: Ch 2, HDC in each st around, Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS.
Round 8: Ch 2, HDc decrease in next 2 stitches around, HDC in last st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Weave in beginning yarn end. Stuff head with stuffing. To some extent you can control the head size by the amount of stuffing you put in it. Thread tail on yarn needle, and gather bottom of head together to form it into a ball. Leave a tail long enough to use for sewing the head to the body.
Sew head to body.
HAT
Use black yarn and G hook.
Work through round 2 of Yo-yo 3.
(note that if you made a larger head, you may want to work another increase row (possibly in sc) before starting the sides of the hat)
Start sides of hat:
(if you are using very stiff yarn, you may be able to get by with HDC's rather than SC's here and do fewer rows)
Round 3: Ch 1, Sc in same st, sc in the front loop only of each st around. Join to top of beginning ch 2 with a SS. (24 SC)
Round 4and 5: Ch 1, Sc in same st, and in each st around. If you want a taller hat do another row or two.
Last row of sides of hat: Same as row 4 and 5 but increase round by 2 sc (26 sc)
Start Brim:
Round 1:
Chain 2, and turn. Hdc in same st as joining. 2 HDc in front loop only of each st around Join to top of beginning ch 2. (52 HDC)
Round 2: ch, Sc in each st around. Join to first st.
You can make the brim wider by repeating round 2.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Shape hat brim with your fingers.
Sew hat to snowman's head. I used the end tail to do this.
Scarf
Chain 45, (or however long you want the scarf to be,), turn and HDC in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Fasten off. I added some fringe to the ends of my scarf.
Tie scarf loosely around snowman's neck.
Now that the snowman is assembled, give him some personality with embellishments.
I used beads for eyes, buttons for buttons, and sewed a cardinal button to his hat. I made an orange yarn french knot for a nose, but I haven't managed to give him a mouth yet. I've tried three times to embroider one on, and none of my attempts worked out. I'm going to leave it like this for now and buy some smaller black beads next time I'm out and use those for his mouth.
Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.
