Cait’s Messy Bun Hat

Cait’s Messy Bun Hat

This is a fairly simple pattern and an advanced beginner could probably make it in an hour or two.  Don’t be intimidated by the front post stitches.  There are a lot of good online instructions that can teach you how to do them. You can even leave them out, although you won’t get the ribbed look to the cuff if you do that.  This pattern can also be used to make a hat without the hole in the top.  Instructions for that appear at the bottom of the pattern.

Materials needed:

WW yarn

Size H crochet hook 

Covered rubber band (the kind you would use for a ponytail on your hair)

Stitches Used:

Ch-chain

Sc - single crochet

Ss-slip stitch

Dc-double crochet

HDC-half double crochet 

FPHDC-front post half double crochet 

Notes:

This hat has a lot of stretch.  Mine had a 20 inch circumference around the cuff, and was between 7.5 and 8 inches high, measuring from the bottom of the cuff to the rubber band.  It stretched to easily fit my head, even though I actually designed it for my young teen great niece.

It is reversible, the cuff looks ribbed on one side and has horizontal ridges on the other side.

I crochet loosely, but you can add extra increase rows if you crochet tightly.  Likewise, you can easily add length if needed. 

Except for round 1, the beginning ch 2 counts as a double crochet. You can use a ch 3 here if you prefer.  When I use a ch 3, I get a gap. 

This hat is made in rounds with the first round crocheted onto the rubber band.  This allows the top of the hat to fit snuggly around the hair.

The ch 2 at the beginning of rounds counts as a stitch, unless stated otherwise.

Pattern:

Round 1:  attach yarn to rubber band with a slip knot, chain 2, (in this round the ch 2 does not count as a stitch), make 24 double crochet stitches worked into the rubber band. Join with ss to first dc.  (24 stitches)

Round 2:  chain 2, ( counts as first dc. ( you may prefer to chain 3 rather than 2), 2 dc in next stitch, *1 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch*, repeat the directions between the *’s to the end of the round, join to top of beginning ch 2 with a ss. (You have added an extra stitch in every other stitch for a total of 36 stitches) 

If you want your hat to be a little larger, add an increase round here by adding a stitch in every third stitch. (You would end up with 48 stitches). The rest of the stitch counts will be different if you choose this option). If you think you need still another increase row, increase in every fourth stitch around. You would then have 60 stitches before you start round 3.

Round 3:  ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch, skip one stitch, *3 dc in next stitch, skip one stitch*, repeat the directions between the *’s around, join with ss into top of beginning ch 2. (You are placing three dc in every other stitch. (52 dc)

Rounds 4-9:    Ss to Center dc of first dc group. Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch, 3 dc in the center stitch of each dc group from the previous row, join to top of beginning ch 2 with a ss. (52 stitches)

(If you want more length do more repeats of rounds 4 to 9)

Round 10:  ch 2, HDC in each stitch around, join around post of beginning ch 2. (52 stitches)

Round 11 to 13:   Ch 3, FPHDC around the post of each stitch in the previous row.  Join to top of the beginning ch 3 with a ss.

(If you want a wider cuff, add more of these rounds.  If you hate FP stitches, just do regular HDC.  Crocheting around the post gives the cuff a ribbed look.)

Row 14: ch 1, turn. ( this is the only time in this pattern that you turn. You will work this round in the opposite direction of the other rounds and you will likely wish to turn the hat inside out to do this one.) 

Sc in same stitch as the joining stitch and sc around. Join with ss in the first sc. 

Finish off by weaving in yarn ends.

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Variation:

If you wish to use this pattern to make a regular hat, you can also do that.  You won’t need the covered rubber band.

To start, chain 4, join with a ss to make a ring.  Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a stitch here, but does in the next row.), and work 12 into the ring. Join with a ss into top of beginning dc.  (12 dc) 

Second round, chain 2, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch into the beginning ch 2. (24 dc)

Proceed with messy bun hat pattern, starting with round 2.

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Ribbed Headband with Flower Trim

This is so easy that you still have time to make one of these for Christmas.  I made this one is just a little over an hour.

WW yarn (I used Bernat Special Value yarn)
J hook
Yarn needle
Large button (optional)

Stitches used:
Ch (Chain)
DC (Double crochet)
HDC (Half double crochet)
FPDC (Front post double crochet)
BPDC (back post double crochet)
TC (Triple Crochet)

Even if you have never done post stitches before, you should be able to make this headband.  Here is a link to an article from Crochet Today that explains how to do post stitches, and shows some of the lovely effects that can be achieved with them.   (If you Google front or back post stitches, you'll find lots more tutorials for these stitches.)

Size: 4 inches wide by approximately 18 inches in diameter.
Can easily be modified to make larger or smaller.

My headband is worked quite loosely so it is somewhat lacy in appearance.  Using a smaller hook and working more tightly will create a more solid headband.  You will need more rows to get enough length, and  a longer beginning chain to make it as wide as mine.  The pattern works with any uneven number of DCs in the first row.  The stitch pattern could also be used to make a ribbed scarf.

Chain 15 fairly loosely.
1st row:  DC in 3rd chain from hook and in each chain across. (13 DC) (Ist two chain count as a DC in this row.)
2nd row:  Chain 2, (counts as first HDC here and throughout rest of pattern), turn, *FPDC in next stitch, HDC in next stitch* repeat from * to *  to end of row, working last HDC into the turning chain. (7 HDC's and 6 FPDC's)
3rd row:  Chain 2, turn, *BPDC in next stitch, HDC in next stitch*, repeat from * to * across, working last HDC into the turning chain

Notes:  Each row has 13 stitches in it.
You will always BPDC into the previous rows FPDC and vice versa.  All HDCs are made into the HDCs of the previous rows.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until headband is long enough to fit around your head snugly. (I did 32 rows, all worked loosely, and my headband was about 18 inches long before I sewed the ends together.) Sew ends together.

Flower trim:

Chain 4, join with slip stitch to form a ring.  *Chain 3, slip stitch into ring to form a loop*.  Repeat from * to * 6 or 7 more times, making chain 3  loops around the outside of the ch 4 ring.  (each loop will form a petal, and you can make any number of petals, I made 7)
Once you have your  loops made, you will stitch into the loops to form petals.
Into each loop do:  1 SC, 2 HDCs, 2 DCs, 1 TC, 2 DCs, 2 HDCs, 1 SC .  This will form a petal.  In between each petal I slip stitched into the area between each loop, but I don't think this is necessary.

Sew flower to headband, using it to hide the area where you joined the ends.  If desired sew a button to the center of the flower.

Alternatively, a row of large buttons or a felt flower would also be an effective and attractive way to hide the seam.  (or maybe your sewing is better than mine and your seam looks good and doesn't need hiding!)

Ribbed Neckwarmer

Ribbed Neckwarmer

Ribbed Neckwarmer PDF download

Easy enough for beginners, once you master the front post double crochet stitch.  Don’t be intimidated by this if you are a beginner.  Front post stitches are easy, and really increase the effects you are able to get  with crochet.  This can probably be easily made in a couple of hours if you have a little crochet experience.

Here is a video link for the front post stitches.

This site has written instructions for many different crochet techniques, If you prefer written information.   You will have to scroll down a bit to find the front post instructions.

Materials:

WW yarn  ( I used Bernat Super Value Yarn in gray)

Size K hook

2 one inch buttons  (the buttons have to be able to fit into the holes between the stitches, so you may have to get smaller buttons if you crochet tightly)

yarn needle for weaving in ends)

sewing thread to match your buttons

needle for sewing the buttons on

Abbreviations:

HDC- half double crochet

FPDC- front post double crochet

FPHDC-front post half double crochet

Chain 92.  (make sure your chain is around 32 inches long for an average size neck.  You can make it longer or shorter depending on your preference.)

Row 1:  HDC in  3^rd chain from hook and in each chain across.  (You should have 90 stitches, but it really doesn’t matter how many you have)

Row 2 through 13:  Chain 2, turn.  (Chain 2 counts as first stitch)  FPDC in each stitch until you get to the last stitch of the row, HDC into last stitch.)

You can continue this row until the neckwarmer is as wide as you would like it to be.

Row 14:  Chain 2, turn, FPHDC into each stitch.  (Doing HDC for the last row, makes the stitches a little shorter and makes the last row match the first one in width.)

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Put neckwarmer around your neck and decide where you want the buttons to be.  Sew on buttons and enjoy!

 Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Lilacs in February Baby Blanket

Lilacs in February Baby Blanket

PDF Link

This is a very easy pattern, suitable for an advanced beginner.  The hardest parts of it are evenly single crocheting along the sides for the first round of the border, and the reverse HDC round that finishes it.

Materials:

WW yarn 16 oz  (I used a Caron pounder in lilac, and only had about 5 yards of yarn left so you may need more.)

K hook

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Special stitch:

Cluster (worked over two stitches) – yarn over hook, insert hook in first stitch, pull up loop,  yarn over hook again, insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop, yarn over hook and pull through all 5 loops on hook-1 cluster stitch made

Abbreviations:

Ch - -chain

Sc – single crochet

Dc – double crochet

Ss – slip stitch

Hdc – half double crochet

Note:

Pattern works on any even number of stitches, so you can make a blanket of any size.  You could also make a scarf or a rectangular shawl from this pattern.

Gauge:

Unimportant.

My blanket is 36 inches square

Pattern:

Chain 85.

Row 1:  Sc into second chain from hook and into each chain to the end (84 sc)

Alternatively, you could foundation single crochet 84 stitches.

Row 2:  Ch 2, turn, DC into next stitch, * cluster over next 2 stitches, ch 1 *, repeat from * to * until you have two stitches left, DC into the last two stitches  (84 stitches)

Row 3:  ch 1, turn,  sc into each double crochet, into the top of each cluster and into every chain stitch  across (84 sc)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 73 rows.  End with row 3.

Do not finish off.  Work border as follows.

Border:

Round 1:  Ch 1, and do a round of sc around the entire afghan, placing 84 sc down each side and across top and bottom, and 3 sc into each corner.  Join with a ss to beginning sc.

Don’t get too hung up on getting the stitch count exactly right.  As long as you have an even number of stitches the pattern will work out. And if despite your best efforts, you happen to miscount and end up with an extra stitch, you can still make it work out.

Round 2:  (work loosely)  SS to corner stitch, ch 2, dc into same stitch, ch 1 and work 2 more dc’s into the same stitch, * cluster stitch worked over next two stitches, ch 1 *, repeat from * to * until you get to the next corner, into next corner stitch work 8 2 DC, ch 1, 2 DC *, all into the same corner stitch, and then continue with cluster stitch, ch 1 down the next side.  Repeat around until you get to the beginning ch 2.  Join with ss. 

Note:  If you ended up miscounting and end up with an extra stitch, just skip a stitch in the middle of a cluster stitch.  It will barely show in the finished blanket, and it’s a lot easier than ripping out what you’ve already accomplished.

Round 2 makes a series of eyelets that you could weave a ribbon through if you were so inclined.

Round 3:  Reverse HDC row

If you’ve never done this before it might take a bit of trying to get it, but once you do, you’ll be happy you did.  This stitch makes an edge that looks a little like a twisted rope.  I use it a lot for afghans, because I think it really makes the project.  If you don’t want to bother, there’s nothing wrong with another row of SC to finish. 

And I suppose if you are a glutton for punishment, you could do reverse sc. That just means you sc in every stitch, but you work backwards.  It’s a lot harder on your hands and takes a lot longer than the reverse HDC, but it also looks really nice.

As you might expect from the name, reverse HDC is worked in the opposite direction that you would usually work in, from left to right, rather than from right to left.  (I’m right handed, I’m not sure what direction a left handed crocheter would ordinarily work in)

And finally, here’s how to work the stitch, remember to work in the “wrong” direction:

To start: ch 2,  HDC into the first ch 1 space, (which should be before a cluster), ch 1, HDC into next ch 1 space.  Continue across, working a HDC into each ch 1 space, with a ch 1 between each HDC.  When you get to the corner, work a HDC into each DC, skipping the ch 1 in between the two sets of DEC’s. (4 HDC’s going around each corner)  Continue around until you get to where you started.  Join to the beginning ch 2.  I usually pull the yarn through a stitch, rather than slip stitching.  Whatever looks best to you is fine.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Essentially reverse HDC is just a  series of  * HDC, ch 1 * worked backwards.  Each new HDC twists around the last set of stitches, creating a twisted looking border.  Rather than “standing up” the HDCs are “laying down” along the edge of the blanket.  I find that it sometimes takes a little finagling to make the corners look nice.  In this case I did a HDC into each of the 4 DC’s in the corners, and skipped the ch 1 in the middle of the DC’s.  This picture will give you an idea of what the reverse HDC edge looks like.

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

January Snowday Scarf

Updated Sept, 2014

January Snowday Scarf PDF

This is another very easy beginner friendly pattern.  It can be made to any length and width, so this pattern would work for an afghan, a shawl, or a baby blanket as well.

Ordinarily I wouldn’t make a scarf that is worked lengthwise, because I hate working into a long chain.  I saw a scarf pattern that I really liked, started it, and lost the pattern.  It seemed a shame to frog what I had already done, so I decided to see what I could come up with.  This is the result.

My scarf is about 6.5 inches wide and 84 inches long.

Materials needed:

WW yarn – I started with a 10 oz skein of Bernat Rainbow Dreams, and had some left over.  I’d estimate that I used between 7 and 8 ounces of yarn.

K hook

Yarn needle to weave in ends

Of course you could use any yarn with an appropriately sized hook.  I used a larger hook than I might ordinarily use with WW yarn, because I wanted the resulting scarf to drape nicely.  If I was making a blanket, I probably would have used an I or a J hook.

You can easily adjust the length of this scarf by changing the number of stitches in the beginning chain or foundation row.

Stitches used:

Foundation single crochet (optional) - FDC

Ch - chain

Single crochet - SC

Double crochet - DC

Special stitch:  shell = 3 DC into same stitch

Notes: 

This scarf is worked back and forth in long rows. It has nice straight edges and square corners.  (my picture taking skills don’t really reflect this very well.)

 I have not yet tried it as a scarf worked in short rows, but it should work.  Just start with a smaller beginning row, say something like 26 or 30 single crochet stitches in row 1, depending on the width you want.  I do not think it will drape as nicely made this way.

Beginning ch 2,  (turning chain), counts as the first DC of each row.  I like to use a chain 2 to represent a double crochet, but a lot of patterns call for a chain 3.  You can use a chain 3 if you prefer.  I find that if I use a chain 2, my edges turn out nice and straight, and there isn’t a big annoying gap between the turning chain and the next double crochet.

 Each row has 174 stitches.

 Pattern uses a multiple of 4 plus 2 stitches.  This means that the number of single crochets in row 1, has to be divisible by 4, with 2 stitches leftover.

Pattern:

Row 1:  FDC 174 stitches. 

(or you can chain 175, and sc into the second chain from the hook and in every chain to the end to get 174 sc)

Row 2: Ch 2,  turn,  DC in next stitch and in each stitch to the end of the row .

Row 3:  Ch 2, turn,  dc in next stitch, * skip a stitch, shell in next stitch, skip a stitch, DC in next st *,  continue from * to *  until you have four stitches left, (including turning chain), skip a stitch, DC in last 2 DC and in top of the chain 2  of the turning chain

Row 4: Ch 2,  Dc in next 4 stitches,  * skip a stitch, shell in next stitch, skip a stitch, DC in next stitch *,  continue from * to * until you get to the last 5 stitches, skip a stitch, DC in last 3 stitches and in the top of the turning chain.

Starting with row 4, the double crochets are worked into the center DC of each shell, and the shells into the single DC.

Row 5-8:  Repeat rows 3 and 4. 

Row 9:  Ch  2, turn, DC in next stitch and in each stitch to the end.

Row 10:  Ch 1, turn, sc in first DC and in each stitch to the end.  End with a sc in the turning chain of row 9. 

Cut yarn, and weave in ends.

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Nate's Afghan

I noticed that I hit 50 followers a few days ago.  This was a totally amazing thing to me, so I decided that I needed to get to work on another pattern.  I had already made this afghan for a Christmas gift, so I took it out of its wrapping so I could write out the pattern.

I apologize for my lousy photography.  I could blame the gloomy weather, but the truth is that I have a hard time getting good pictures, even when the lighting is perfect.

Nate’s Afghan

Link to Pattern PDF file

I made this as a gift for my son.  I wanted to make a warm, masculine afghan that I could finish quickly.

Afghan is worked holding two strands of yarn together.  You could certainly use a single strand of yarn with a smaller hook, but your afghan would be smaller.

Size:  mine turned out to be about 54 inches square.

Difficulty:  advanced beginner

Materials:

WW yarn in two colors.  I used  approximately 1500 yards of yarn (a little over 4 skeins of  Carons Simply Soft and just under 4 skeins of Bernat Super Value)  I used black and a medium shade of green

Size N hook

Yarn needle

Abbreviations used:

FDC- foundation double crochet

DC- double crochet

Ch-chain

BPDC  back post double crochet

FPDC  front post double crochet

St- stitch

Sc- single crochet

ss-slip stitch

Special stitch:  DC two together:  wrap yarn around hook once, insert into first stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn around hook,pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through remaining three loops on hook  (if you usually do this stitch differently, do it your own way, it will look fine)

Pattern:

NOTE:  Ch 2 always counts as the first stitch

Every row has 112 stitches

Turn at the end of every row

Ridges created by FPDC and BPDC should always be on the front of the afghan. 

First row:

FDC 112  (or make 112 DC into a chain., I hate working into a chain, so I like to use the FDC method)

To start with a chain, Ch 114 and dc into 3rd ch from the hook and every chain to make 112 DC's in your foundation row.

Row 2 and 3:  Ch 2, dc to end

Row 4:  (begin mesh pattern)

Ch 2, Dc in next 6 stitches, **ch1, skip a stich, DC in next stitch, ch 1 skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC in next st, ch 1, DC in next 8 stitches**  Repeat ** to ** to the end.  (yes the beginning has 7 DC, but you end with 8 DC)  You should have 8 mesh sections in this row, each with 4 ch 1 spaces.

For rows 5 to 10 .  Count the ch 1 spaces as a stitch, and work the DC’s into the space into the space.

Row 5:  Ch 2, Dc in next 8 stitches, including the first ch 1 space of the previous row, ** ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space, Ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into Ch 1 space, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC in next 10 stitches, including last ch 1 space of previous row**,  repeat  to section in between **’s   to end, there will be 8 DC in the last solid section.  You will have 3 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section.

Row 6: Ch 2, DC in next 9 stitches, **ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, DC into next 12 stitches,** repeat stitches between **’s to the end.  The row will end with 9 DC’s.  There will be 2 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section.

Row 7:  Ch 2, DC into next 10 stitches, ** ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, skip a stitch,  Dc into next 14 stitches**  Repeat stitches between **’s to end.  The row will end with 10 DC’s.  You will have 1 ch space in each mesh section.

Row 8:  repeat row 6 pattern  (you won’t have as many ch 1 spaces to work into, but the pattern is the same)  (2 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 9: Repeat  Row 5  (3 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 10:  repeat row 4  (4 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 11:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 12:  Ch 2, BPDC across  (this will create a ridge on the front side of the afghan)

Row 13:  Ch 2, FPDC across

Row 14: Ch 2, DC across

Row 15:  Ch 2, **Skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, Working around stitch just made, DC in skipped stitch**   (crossed double crochet made)  Repeat stitches between **’s to 2^nd last stitch from the end, DC in last stitch

Row 16-18:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row 19:  Ch 2,  **DC two together, ch 1, ** Repeat stitches between **’s to last stitch,  DC in last stitch.

Row20-23:  repeat row 18, using the ch 1 space as a stitch.

Row 24-26:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row: 27:  repeat row 15

Row 28-29:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 30:  Repeat row 12  (BPDC row)

Row 31:  repeat row 13  (FPDC row)

Row 32: ch 2, Dc across

Row 33: repeat row 15  (crossed doubles)

Row 34 and 35:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 36:  repeat row 12 (BPDC row)

Row 37:  repeat row 13 (FPDC row)

Row 38:  ch 2, DC across

Row 39:  repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)

Row 40 to 42:  Ch 2, dc across

Row 43-47:  Repeat rows 19-23

Row 48 - 50:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row 51:  Repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)

Row 52 and 53:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 54:  Repeat row 12 (BPDC row)

Row 55:  Repeat row 13 (FPDC row)

Row 56:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 57 – 63:  repeat rows 4 to 10 (mesh pattern)

Row 64 –66:  Ch 2, Dc across

This finishes the main body of the afghan.  I finished mine with 2 rows of sc worked around the entire thing.  You could quit now if you want. If you plan to add a border, don’t cut the yarn, just continue onto the border.

SC border:  Ch 1, turn, sc across.  Place 3 stitches in the corner and continue single crocheting along the side of the afghan, evenly placing stitches into ends of the rows. When you get to the corner, place 3 stitches in the corner stitch, sc across the end, and continue around the e=next side, placing 3 stitches in each corner.  Join round with a slip stitch,  ch 1 and go around again.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

I try to get the same number of sc’s down each side, so that the finished afghan looks nice and even.  I don’t think one more or less makes much difference, but a few extra stitches down one side as compared with the other side can make the afghan look lop-sided.

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Easy Baby Shoes

Baby Shoes

Difficulty: easy

Size: approx 3 ½ inch length. 

Could easily be made larger by using a larger hook and regular WW yarn

Stitches used:

Ch chain

SS slip stitch

HDC half double crochet

DC double crochet

Special stitches:

I have described the technique I used for these stitches for the benefit of those that are not familiar with them.  My way is very likely not the accepted way, since I just do whatever seems to work for me.  Feel free to do these stitches the way you are used to doing them.  It will work out just fine.

DC 2 together   (yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on shook, yarn over, pull through last 3 loops on hook)

HDC 2 together (yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, and pull through all 5 loops on  hook.)

Materials:

2 colors of light worsted weight yarn  (I used TLC, which is 3 ply. It seems similar to Simply Soft) (the second color is only used for the flower, you could use a button or another embellishment instead)

4 mm (size G) hook 

yarn needle

 

Ch 11.

Sole:

Round 1:

HDC in 3^rd ch from hook, and in next 7 ch.

7 HDC’s in last ch.

Now begin working down other side of the chain, working into the free loops.

HDC in next 7 ch.

5 HDC in last ch, join to top of first HDC.  (27 stitches)

Round 2:

Ch 2, (counts as 1^st stitch), HDC in same space, 2 HDC’s in next stitch, HDC in next 6 st, DC in next 2 stitches, 2 Dc in each of the next 5 stitches, DC in next 2 stitches, HDC in next 7 st,,  2 HDC in each of the next 3 stitches, join with ss to front loop of the top of the beginning ch 2.  (37 stitches)

Begin sides:

Round 1:

Ch 1, Sc in same space, sc in FLO of next 8 stitches, HDC in FLO of next 5 stitches’ DC in FLO of  next 6 stitches, HDC in FLO of next 5 stitches, sc in last 12 stitches, join to first sc with SS.  (37 stitches)

Round 2:

Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 7 stitches, HDc in next 3 stitches, Dc in next st, DC 2 together x 5, DC in next st, HDC in next 3 stitches, sc in last 11 stitches, join with SS to top of first sc.

Round 3:

Ch 1, SC in same space, and in next 10 stitches, HDC in next 3 stitches, DC 2 together x 2, HDC in next 3 stitches, SC in last11 stitches, join to top of first SC with SS

Round 4, Ch 2, HDC in next 10 stitches,   DC 2 together x 4, HDC in next 9 stitches, HDC 2 together, join with SS to top of first Ch 2

Round 5, Ch 1, turn, so that you are working around the shoe from the outside, SS in same space in each stitch around, ( 23 stitches)  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Flower:

Ch 4, join with SS to form a rind.  Ch 1 and make 5 sc in ring. Work over the tail of the yarn.   Join to first SC with SS.

Pull on starting yarn to tighten ring,  Ch 3, join with SS to next sc, (makes a petal),  repeat around so that you have 5 CH 3 petals, join last Ch 3 to first sc.  Fasten off and weave in one end. Use other end to sew flower to front of shoe, before weaving in that end.

You could use a cute button or a tiny bow to embellish the shoe if you prefer.  You can also change the look of the shoe by doing the SS row (last row) in a contrasting color. 

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.



PDF Download

May Day baby Blanket

This is a relatively easy blanket, which I think should be achievable by an advanced beginner. It takes a little practice to get proficient at the crossed doubles, (mostly just figuring out which is the next stitch to skip, since the crossed Dc pulls the stitches that they have been worked into, close together), but once you get it, they are easy.

This blanket can be adapted to be a full size afghan or it can be made smaller. See end of pattern for some ideas on how to change the size.

Gauge: unimportant

I crochet somewhat loosely. My blanket will be about 42 inches square.

Materials:

WW yarn, (I used 26-28 oz of yarn.)

Crochet hook size K

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Any yarn will work, just use an appropriately sized hook, size will vary with yarn used.

Stitches used:

St-stitch

ch-chain

sc-single crochet

dc-double crochet

Crossed doubles

fpdc-Front post double crochet (instead of working into the top of the dc in the previous row, you work around the post of the stitch from the front of it)

bpdc-Back post double crochet (same as above, but you are working the stich from the back of the post of the dc from the previous row)

Front and back post stitches form what I call “fake cables” or ridges on the front of your work. I like them because they are an easy way to add some texture and interest to crocheted fabric.

Note that all rows will have 120 stitches in them. The afghan is made in one piece. However, I have divided the pattern into sections to make it a little easier to keep track of. Do not end off at the end of a section, keep crocheting onto the next one. The afghan is made as follows:

section 1, section 2, section 1, section 2, section 1.

Pattern:

Chain 121.

Section 1:

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. (120 sc) this is the right side)

Row 2: ch 2 (always counts as first dc), dc in each stitch across.

Row 3: ch 2, bpdc in each st across until you reach the turning ch, dc into top of turning ch

Row 4: ch 2, fpdc in each st across until you reach the turning ch, dc into top of turning ch

Row 5: ch 2, dc in each st across, last stitch will be into the top of the turning ch

Row 6: Ch 2, * skip a stitch, dc into the next stitch. Now, working around the stitch you just made, dc into the skipped stitch. (your crochet hook will be in front of the dc you just made)* (These two stitches made one set of crossed doubles) repeat from * to * until you get to the turning chain. Dc into the top of the turning chain.

Row 7: Repeat row 2, finishing with a dc in the top of the turning chainrow)

Row 8: ch, sc in each st across, finishing with a sc in top of turning ch

Row 9. Repeat row 7. (it’s a DC row)

Row 10: Repeat row 6. (crossed doubles)

Row 11 –13: Repeat rows 7 to 9.

Row 14: Repeat row 6. (crossed doubles)

Row 15: Repeat row 8. (sc row)

Row 16: repeat row 2. (double crochet row)

Row 17: repeat row 3. (bpdc row)

Row 18: repeat row 4 (fpdc row)

Row 19: repeat row 8 (sc row)

Section 2:

Rows 20-32: ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st * repeat from * to * to end of row (end this section with a wrong side row)

The rest of the afghan is repeats of the previous sections.

Rows 33-51: repeat section 1

Row 52 to 64: repeat section 2

Rows 65-81: repeat section 1

Do not cut yarn. Work a sc border all around the blanket, placing 3 sc into each corner and spacing stitches evenly across the ends of the rows. I try to make the same number of stitches in each end, so that the finished blanket turns out nice and even. I finished with a row of reverse HDC. (*HDC in a stitch, ch 1, skip a stitch* and repeat from *to*) worked all around but from left to right, rather than the usual right to left. This makes a nice rope like border.

This blanket can easily be made larger or smaller. Start with an even number of sc in the first row.

To make the blanket narrower, you could subtract some rows from section 2, (making sure to end with a wrong side row), or leave out rows 11 to 13 in section 1. This would give you a panel with two rows of crossed doubles in between the fake cables created by the fpdc's and bpdc's.

To make it wider, you could either add panels, add more rows to section 2, add some extra rows into one of the panels, or make up additions of your own.

I purposely didn’t add any very lacy stitches, because I wanted the finished product to be suitable for either a boys or a girls blanket.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Market Bag

This is a small size market bag that I made to use up some leftover WW cotton yarn. Laying flat, mine measures about 14 inches wide, by 15 inches long, excluding the handles. it is quite stretchy, so it will hold a fair amount.

Materials:
WW cotton yarn:
I used approx 6 - 7 oz variegated (it was the last of one of those 14 oz skeins of peaches and cream) and 2 oz. or so of a co-ordinating plain color
G and H hooks
4 stitch markers
yarn needle

Stitches used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet

Starting with variegated yarn and H hook:
ch 40.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (39 sc) Ch 1, turn.
row 2-10: SC in each ch across. (39 sc in each row) Ch 1 turn.

You will now begin working in rounds.
Row 11 and Round 1: Sc in each st across. When you reach the end of the row, turn work so that you can sc across the ends of the 11 sc rows. Do not ch 1. Do one sc in the end of each row. (11 sc) when you get to the other side, sc in the loose loops of the beginning chain. (39 sc) Make a sc in the other ends of the 11 sc rows. Join to the first sc of the round.
Round 12 - 15: Ch 1, Sc in each stitch around, join the stitches of each round to the beginning sc of that round. You should have 100 sc.
(Don't worry if you don't. As long as you have an even number of stitches when you get to the mesh part, the pattern will work. Actually, for that matter, you can always fudge a little in the first row to make it work, its only a market bag after all!)

If you want a larger solid bottom, just do more sc rounds, until the solid part is a high as you want it. I would probably have done more if I wasn't worried about running out of yarn.

Start mesh pattern, continue to work in rounds:
Round 16: Ch 4, (counts as first dc plus ch 1), skip a stitch, *DC in next st, ch 1. Skip a stitch * repeat from * to * around, join in third st of the beginning ch 4, slip stitch into the space created by the ch 4. (I don't know quite how to write that, it would be like slip stitching into the ch 1 space)

round 17-32: Ch 4, DC into next ch 1 space, ch 1, *DC into next ch 1 space, ch 1*, repeat from * to * around, join into 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, slip stitch into space created by the ch 4.

Again, you can add more rounds here to make the bag taller.

round 33-35:
Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join to beginning st
Fasten off.


Start handles:
Lay your bag down flat and mark the stitch on each side. Count out 12 stitches on either side of this stitch and place a marker in each of them. This should give you 25 stitches front and back between the markers.

Join contrasting yarn at a marker.

round 1: Sc from that marker around the side of the bag to the next marker. Ch 30. Skip the 25 stitches on the flat side of the bag, (it will be either the front or back depending on where you joined your yarn.) Sc into the next marked stitch and continue to the next marker. Ch 30 to make the other handles and join to the beginning sc with a slip stitch.

Round 2 - 6- Ch 1, sc in joining stitch and in each st and chain around (110 sc) Again it doesn't really matter if you have a different number of stitches.

At the end of round 6 fasten off.
Still using the H hook, do a round of SC around the inside (circle part) of the handles.

Using a G hook, do a round of sc around the inside of the handles and around the top of the bag. I found that using a smaller hook for this made a slightly less stretchy handle.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Once you have made one of these bags, you will find it very easy to make a larger bag using the same general idea.


Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Ashlea Scarf

This is a very easy scarf pattern. Although the lacy stitch pattern looks a little complicated, it uses only chains, and single and double crochet stitches. Once you establish the pattern, it is only a simple one row repeat, which is easy to memorize. It is simple to make this design wider or narrower, and I think it would make a pretty shawl also.



Notes:

I used WW weight yarn and a K hook. The stitch pattern is quite dense in places, so it drapes better if you use a hook that seems a little large for the yarn. I crochet loosely.

This pattern uses a stitch multiple of 4 plus 1. Then you add 3 more to your beginning chain for the turning chain. (which in this case means that your beginning chain has to be a multiple of 4.) This means that you could make a narrower scarf by subtracting 4 stitches or make a wider scarf or a shawl, by adding stitches in multiples of 4.

My scarf turned out to be 7 inches wide. If I made it again, I might make it a little narrower, but this scarf is going to a "warm the homeless project" that was organized by one of my co-workers so the width will be welcome for warmth.

Stitches used:
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
sc: single crochet

Special stitches:
cluster: 1 dc and 1 sc both in same chain or stitch
v stitch: 1 dc, ch1, 1 dc all done in the same chain or stitch

V stitch in v stitch means that you make a v stitch in the chain 1 space of the v stitch in the previous row.

The chain 3 that starts each row is there to give the scalloped effect along the edge of the scarf and is not used as a working stitch. Just ignore it when you get to the end of the row. The last cluster is worked into the last actual stitch of the row, not the turning chain.

The Pattern:

Chain 20. Remember to use a hook that is a couple of sizes larger than the yarn calls for, so that your scarf will drape nicely.

Row 1: Make cluster into the 4th ch from the hook), **skip a ch, v stitch in the next ch, skip a chain, cluster into the next ch**, repeat from ** to **. You should end with a cluster in the last chain. Ch 3, turn

Row 2: Skip the first sc, make a cluster in the next st, (which is the dc of the cluster below),
**v stitch into the v stitch below, cluster into the DC of the cluster below**, repeat from ** to **, ending with a cluster in the last DC of the last cluster. Do not stitch into the ch 3 turning chain.
ch 3, turn.

Repeat row 2 until your scarf is as long as you want it to be.

The pattern consists of clusters worked in the DC of the clusters in the row beneath alternating with v stitches worked in the chain 1 space of the v stitch in the previous row.

If you don't want the scalloped edge, using a ch 2 as a turning chain will make the edge straighter. If you choose this option, you would need to subtract one chain from the beginning chain.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Christmas Coasters

I call these Christmas coasters because I used variegated yarn in red, white and green, but they don't have to be festive.

This could also be used as a decoration for a purse, or a hat.

Mine turned out to be just slightly over 4 inches from point to point.



Materials:
WW yarn (I used cotton)
size I hook
Yarn needle

Stitches used:
ss- slip stitch
ch- chain
sc- single crochet
Hdc- half double crochet
dc- double crochet
trc- triple crochet

Pattern:
Ch 3 and join with SS to form ring.

Round 1: Ch 3, (counts as a DC) and make 11 more DC in ring, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4, *sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4*. repeat from * to * around ending with ch 4. ss into top of first sc. You should have 6 ch 1 spaces and 6 ch 3 spaces.

Round 3: Ss into the first ch 1 space, *into the next ch 3 space work sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc, ss into next ch 1 space*. repeat from * to * around, end with ss in top of first ss.

Fasten off and work in ends.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Crocheted Lattice Clothes Hanger Cover

Covered hangers keep your clothes from sliding onto the floor. This is easy to customize to any plastic hanger.

WW yarn
Size G hook
Plastic clothes hanger
Yarn needle


Stitches used:

SS - slip stitch
Ch – chain
Dc – Double crochet


The beginning ch 2 represents a DC. All rounds are joined with a ss to the 2nd ch of the beginning ch.

I chain loosely, so I use a ch 2 to represent a DC in this pattern. If you wish, you can use a ch 3 to represent the beginning DC of each round. You will have to add a chain at the beginning of every round and join each round to the third chain of the beginning chain.


This pattern is a lattice design worked in rounds. Each round has 8 DC in it, and they are separated by spaces made of varying numbers of chains in order to make the cover fit around the hanger.

To begin each new round after round 2, ss to the next ch space.

Keep trying the cover on the hanger you are making it for and add chains as needed for the cover to fit. The fit should be snug.
It took 13 rows to cover the hanger I used. I have two different brands of plastic hangers, but they are almost exactly the same size.


PATTERN
This pattern covers half the hanger, so you will need to make 2.

Ch 4, join into ring with SS.

Round 1:
Ch2, Dc into ring, Ch 1, + 2 DC into ring, ch 1 +, repeat x 2 from + to +. You should have 8 DC and 4 ch 1 spaces.

Round 2:
Ss to space between first 2 dc, ch 3, + Dc into next space, ch 1 +, repeat from + to + around, join

Round 3 and 4:
Ss to ch 1 space, ch 3, +dc into next ch 1 sp, ch 1+, repeat from + to + around, join.

Round 5 to 7:
Work same as rounds 3 and 4, but increase every other chain space to 2 chains.
You will have 8 dc’s with 8 spaces, 4 will be ch 2 spaces, 4 will be ch 1 spaces.

Rounds 8 to 10:
Work same as round 5, except increase every chain space between the dc’s to 2 chains.
You will still have 8 DC’s and you will have 8 ch 2 spaces.

Rounds 11-12:

Work same as previous rounds, but increase every other ch space to 3 chains.

Round 13:
Work same as previous rows, but increase each ch space to 3 chains.

If this is too small for your hanger, just continue in pattern, adding chains to the spaces as needed for your hanger. Keep trying it on the hanger as you make the cover.

Make another half the same and fit them over the clothes hanger. Sew together down the middle. I sewed all the Dc’s together. I just wove the yarn through the chains to get to the next pair of DC’s.
Alternatively, you could tie the two halves together on both sides of the hanger, at the top and bottom with yarn or ribbon. This would make it easier to remove the cover at a later time if you wanted to.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Shell Baby Booties

Shell Baby Booties

Size: sole is about 4 inches long

WW yarn

H hook

Ribbon (optional)

Stitches used:

Ch – chain

Ss – slip stitch

Hdc – Half double crochet

Dc – Double crochet

Sc – single crochet

Pattern:

Beginning chain counts as a stitch.

Round 1:

Ch 3, 7 HDC in 3^rd ch from hook, join to top of beginning ch. (8 HDC)

Round 2:

Ch 2, Hdc in same st, 2HDC in each st around, join to top of beginning ch. (16 HDC)

Rounds 3 to 6:

Ch 2, Hdc in each st around. (16 Hdc)

Start working back and forth in rows. 4 stitches in the round will be left unworked.

Row 7:

Ch 2, Hdc in the next 11 stitches. (12 Hdc)

Row 8 and 9:

Ch 2, turn, Hdc in each st around (12 Hdc)

Row 10:

Ch2, turn, Hdc in next st, HDC 2 together 4 times, Hdc in last 2 stitches (8 HDC)

Now you will again work in rounds.

Round 11:

ch 1, turn.

You will be working along the ends of the rows just completed.

Make 6 sc evenly spaced across the ends of rows 7 to 10.

Sc in the 4 stitches left unworked from round 6, then make 6 more sc evenly spaced along the other ends of rows 7 to 10.

Join with a ss to the first sc on the other side. You will have a bootie shape with a slit in the heel. (16 sc)

Round 12:

Ch 2, HDC in each st around Join with SS to top of beginning ch 2. (16 HDC)

Round 13:

(eyelet row)

Ch 3, skip a stitch, + Hdc in next st, ch 1, Skip a stitch + repeat from + to + around , join with SS to top of beginning ch (8 ch 1 spaces)

Round 14:

SS to a ch 1 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, make a 3 dc in each of the other ch 1 spaces, join with ss to top of beginning ch 3.

Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to weave down to the slit in the heel and sew it up.

Weave in ends. Thread a length of ribbon through the eyelets, or make a crocheted chain to use for a tie.

These booties can be made smaller by omitting a round, or larger by adding a round or row. They can be made taller by adding a row of sc or another shell row at the end.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.