Doily Style Baby Blanket

This is made out of the same yarn as the Lilacs in February blanket.  I had purchased an extra skein (Caron Pounder in lilac), in case I needed it to finish that blanket.  I didn't use it, so I decided to make another blanket out of it.  I ended up needing more than 16 oz of yarn for this blanket, so I had to buy another skein.  Of course I still have most of that last skein left, so now I will have to think of something else to make out of it.  I made up this pattern as I went along, but so far I've only written out the first 15 or so rows.  I'm not sure that this will ever become a written pattern, since it required such a lot of ripping out and re-doing in order to get it to lay flat.  As is the case with most of the baby things I make, this will be donated to the local pregnancy resource center.

My original plan was to make a fancy border for this blanket, but by the time I finished the petal section, it was already 40 inches in diameter.  So I finished it off with a very simple scalloped border instead.

Lilacs in February Baby Blanket

Lilacs in February Baby Blanket

PDF Link

This is a very easy pattern, suitable for an advanced beginner.  The hardest parts of it are evenly single crocheting along the sides for the first round of the border, and the reverse HDC round that finishes it.

Materials:

WW yarn 16 oz  (I used a Caron pounder in lilac, and only had about 5 yards of yarn left so you may need more.)

K hook

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Special stitch:

Cluster (worked over two stitches) – yarn over hook, insert hook in first stitch, pull up loop,  yarn over hook again, insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop, yarn over hook and pull through all 5 loops on hook-1 cluster stitch made

Abbreviations:

Ch - -chain

Sc – single crochet

Dc – double crochet

Ss – slip stitch

Hdc – half double crochet

Note:

Pattern works on any even number of stitches, so you can make a blanket of any size.  You could also make a scarf or a rectangular shawl from this pattern.

Gauge:

Unimportant.

My blanket is 36 inches square

Pattern:

Chain 85.

Row 1:  Sc into second chain from hook and into each chain to the end (84 sc)

Alternatively, you could foundation single crochet 84 stitches.

Row 2:  Ch 2, turn, DC into next stitch, * cluster over next 2 stitches, ch 1 *, repeat from * to * until you have two stitches left, DC into the last two stitches  (84 stitches)

Row 3:  ch 1, turn,  sc into each double crochet, into the top of each cluster and into every chain stitch  across (84 sc)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 73 rows.  End with row 3.

Do not finish off.  Work border as follows.

Border:

Round 1:  Ch 1, and do a round of sc around the entire afghan, placing 84 sc down each side and across top and bottom, and 3 sc into each corner.  Join with a ss to beginning sc.

Don’t get too hung up on getting the stitch count exactly right.  As long as you have an even number of stitches the pattern will work out. And if despite your best efforts, you happen to miscount and end up with an extra stitch, you can still make it work out.

Round 2:  (work loosely)  SS to corner stitch, ch 2, dc into same stitch, ch 1 and work 2 more dc’s into the same stitch, * cluster stitch worked over next two stitches, ch 1 *, repeat from * to * until you get to the next corner, into next corner stitch work 8 2 DC, ch 1, 2 DC *, all into the same corner stitch, and then continue with cluster stitch, ch 1 down the next side.  Repeat around until you get to the beginning ch 2.  Join with ss. 

Note:  If you ended up miscounting and end up with an extra stitch, just skip a stitch in the middle of a cluster stitch.  It will barely show in the finished blanket, and it’s a lot easier than ripping out what you’ve already accomplished.

Round 2 makes a series of eyelets that you could weave a ribbon through if you were so inclined.

Round 3:  Reverse HDC row

If you’ve never done this before it might take a bit of trying to get it, but once you do, you’ll be happy you did.  This stitch makes an edge that looks a little like a twisted rope.  I use it a lot for afghans, because I think it really makes the project.  If you don’t want to bother, there’s nothing wrong with another row of SC to finish. 

And I suppose if you are a glutton for punishment, you could do reverse sc. That just means you sc in every stitch, but you work backwards.  It’s a lot harder on your hands and takes a lot longer than the reverse HDC, but it also looks really nice.

As you might expect from the name, reverse HDC is worked in the opposite direction that you would usually work in, from left to right, rather than from right to left.  (I’m right handed, I’m not sure what direction a left handed crocheter would ordinarily work in)

And finally, here’s how to work the stitch, remember to work in the “wrong” direction:

To start: ch 2,  HDC into the first ch 1 space, (which should be before a cluster), ch 1, HDC into next ch 1 space.  Continue across, working a HDC into each ch 1 space, with a ch 1 between each HDC.  When you get to the corner, work a HDC into each DC, skipping the ch 1 in between the two sets of DEC’s. (4 HDC’s going around each corner)  Continue around until you get to where you started.  Join to the beginning ch 2.  I usually pull the yarn through a stitch, rather than slip stitching.  Whatever looks best to you is fine.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Essentially reverse HDC is just a  series of  * HDC, ch 1 * worked backwards.  Each new HDC twists around the last set of stitches, creating a twisted looking border.  Rather than “standing up” the HDCs are “laying down” along the edge of the blanket.  I find that it sometimes takes a little finagling to make the corners look nice.  In this case I did a HDC into each of the 4 DC’s in the corners, and skipped the ch 1 in the middle of the DC’s.  This picture will give you an idea of what the reverse HDC edge looks like.

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

I've finished one of my WIPS

I finally finished the Bernat mystery afghan today.  I have to say honestly that I don't like it at all.  I don't think that the pattern is at all worthy of a professional designer (or at least I assume that Bernat has professional designers).  If I were a beginner crocheter and tried this as one of my first projects, I'd choose another craft. However, here it is.  My photograph is worse than usual, but my subject isn't all that great either.

January Snowday Scarf

Updated Sept, 2014

January Snowday Scarf PDF

This is another very easy beginner friendly pattern.  It can be made to any length and width, so this pattern would work for an afghan, a shawl, or a baby blanket as well.

Ordinarily I wouldn’t make a scarf that is worked lengthwise, because I hate working into a long chain.  I saw a scarf pattern that I really liked, started it, and lost the pattern.  It seemed a shame to frog what I had already done, so I decided to see what I could come up with.  This is the result.

My scarf is about 6.5 inches wide and 84 inches long.

Materials needed:

WW yarn – I started with a 10 oz skein of Bernat Rainbow Dreams, and had some left over.  I’d estimate that I used between 7 and 8 ounces of yarn.

K hook

Yarn needle to weave in ends

Of course you could use any yarn with an appropriately sized hook.  I used a larger hook than I might ordinarily use with WW yarn, because I wanted the resulting scarf to drape nicely.  If I was making a blanket, I probably would have used an I or a J hook.

You can easily adjust the length of this scarf by changing the number of stitches in the beginning chain or foundation row.

Stitches used:

Foundation single crochet (optional) - FDC

Ch - chain

Single crochet - SC

Double crochet - DC

Special stitch:  shell = 3 DC into same stitch

Notes: 

This scarf is worked back and forth in long rows. It has nice straight edges and square corners.  (my picture taking skills don’t really reflect this very well.)

 I have not yet tried it as a scarf worked in short rows, but it should work.  Just start with a smaller beginning row, say something like 26 or 30 single crochet stitches in row 1, depending on the width you want.  I do not think it will drape as nicely made this way.

Beginning ch 2,  (turning chain), counts as the first DC of each row.  I like to use a chain 2 to represent a double crochet, but a lot of patterns call for a chain 3.  You can use a chain 3 if you prefer.  I find that if I use a chain 2, my edges turn out nice and straight, and there isn’t a big annoying gap between the turning chain and the next double crochet.

 Each row has 174 stitches.

 Pattern uses a multiple of 4 plus 2 stitches.  This means that the number of single crochets in row 1, has to be divisible by 4, with 2 stitches leftover.

Pattern:

Row 1:  FDC 174 stitches. 

(or you can chain 175, and sc into the second chain from the hook and in every chain to the end to get 174 sc)

Row 2: Ch 2,  turn,  DC in next stitch and in each stitch to the end of the row .

Row 3:  Ch 2, turn,  dc in next stitch, * skip a stitch, shell in next stitch, skip a stitch, DC in next st *,  continue from * to *  until you have four stitches left, (including turning chain), skip a stitch, DC in last 2 DC and in top of the chain 2  of the turning chain

Row 4: Ch 2,  Dc in next 4 stitches,  * skip a stitch, shell in next stitch, skip a stitch, DC in next stitch *,  continue from * to * until you get to the last 5 stitches, skip a stitch, DC in last 3 stitches and in the top of the turning chain.

Starting with row 4, the double crochets are worked into the center DC of each shell, and the shells into the single DC.

Row 5-8:  Repeat rows 3 and 4. 

Row 9:  Ch  2, turn, DC in next stitch and in each stitch to the end.

Row 10:  Ch 1, turn, sc in first DC and in each stitch to the end.  End with a sc in the turning chain of row 9. 

Cut yarn, and weave in ends.

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Nate's Afghan

I noticed that I hit 50 followers a few days ago.  This was a totally amazing thing to me, so I decided that I needed to get to work on another pattern.  I had already made this afghan for a Christmas gift, so I took it out of its wrapping so I could write out the pattern.

I apologize for my lousy photography.  I could blame the gloomy weather, but the truth is that I have a hard time getting good pictures, even when the lighting is perfect.

Nate’s Afghan

Link to Pattern PDF file

I made this as a gift for my son.  I wanted to make a warm, masculine afghan that I could finish quickly.

Afghan is worked holding two strands of yarn together.  You could certainly use a single strand of yarn with a smaller hook, but your afghan would be smaller.

Size:  mine turned out to be about 54 inches square.

Difficulty:  advanced beginner

Materials:

WW yarn in two colors.  I used  approximately 1500 yards of yarn (a little over 4 skeins of  Carons Simply Soft and just under 4 skeins of Bernat Super Value)  I used black and a medium shade of green

Size N hook

Yarn needle

Abbreviations used:

FDC- foundation double crochet

DC- double crochet

Ch-chain

BPDC  back post double crochet

FPDC  front post double crochet

St- stitch

Sc- single crochet

ss-slip stitch

Special stitch:  DC two together:  wrap yarn around hook once, insert into first stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn around hook,pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through remaining three loops on hook  (if you usually do this stitch differently, do it your own way, it will look fine)

Pattern:

NOTE:  Ch 2 always counts as the first stitch

Every row has 112 stitches

Turn at the end of every row

Ridges created by FPDC and BPDC should always be on the front of the afghan. 

First row:

FDC 112  (or make 112 DC into a chain., I hate working into a chain, so I like to use the FDC method)

To start with a chain, Ch 114 and dc into 3rd ch from the hook and every chain to make 112 DC's in your foundation row.

Row 2 and 3:  Ch 2, dc to end

Row 4:  (begin mesh pattern)

Ch 2, Dc in next 6 stitches, **ch1, skip a stich, DC in next stitch, ch 1 skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC in next st, ch 1, DC in next 8 stitches**  Repeat ** to ** to the end.  (yes the beginning has 7 DC, but you end with 8 DC)  You should have 8 mesh sections in this row, each with 4 ch 1 spaces.

For rows 5 to 10 .  Count the ch 1 spaces as a stitch, and work the DC’s into the space into the space.

Row 5:  Ch 2, Dc in next 8 stitches, including the first ch 1 space of the previous row, ** ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space, Ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into Ch 1 space, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC in next 10 stitches, including last ch 1 space of previous row**,  repeat  to section in between **’s   to end, there will be 8 DC in the last solid section.  You will have 3 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section.

Row 6: Ch 2, DC in next 9 stitches, **ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, DC into next 12 stitches,** repeat stitches between **’s to the end.  The row will end with 9 DC’s.  There will be 2 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section.

Row 7:  Ch 2, DC into next 10 stitches, ** ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, skip a stitch,  Dc into next 14 stitches**  Repeat stitches between **’s to end.  The row will end with 10 DC’s.  You will have 1 ch space in each mesh section.

Row 8:  repeat row 6 pattern  (you won’t have as many ch 1 spaces to work into, but the pattern is the same)  (2 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 9: Repeat  Row 5  (3 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 10:  repeat row 4  (4 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 11:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 12:  Ch 2, BPDC across  (this will create a ridge on the front side of the afghan)

Row 13:  Ch 2, FPDC across

Row 14: Ch 2, DC across

Row 15:  Ch 2, **Skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, Working around stitch just made, DC in skipped stitch**   (crossed double crochet made)  Repeat stitches between **’s to 2^nd last stitch from the end, DC in last stitch

Row 16-18:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row 19:  Ch 2,  **DC two together, ch 1, ** Repeat stitches between **’s to last stitch,  DC in last stitch.

Row20-23:  repeat row 18, using the ch 1 space as a stitch.

Row 24-26:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row: 27:  repeat row 15

Row 28-29:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 30:  Repeat row 12  (BPDC row)

Row 31:  repeat row 13  (FPDC row)

Row 32: ch 2, Dc across

Row 33: repeat row 15  (crossed doubles)

Row 34 and 35:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 36:  repeat row 12 (BPDC row)

Row 37:  repeat row 13 (FPDC row)

Row 38:  ch 2, DC across

Row 39:  repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)

Row 40 to 42:  Ch 2, dc across

Row 43-47:  Repeat rows 19-23

Row 48 - 50:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row 51:  Repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)

Row 52 and 53:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 54:  Repeat row 12 (BPDC row)

Row 55:  Repeat row 13 (FPDC row)

Row 56:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 57 – 63:  repeat rows 4 to 10 (mesh pattern)

Row 64 –66:  Ch 2, Dc across

This finishes the main body of the afghan.  I finished mine with 2 rows of sc worked around the entire thing.  You could quit now if you want. If you plan to add a border, don’t cut the yarn, just continue onto the border.

SC border:  Ch 1, turn, sc across.  Place 3 stitches in the corner and continue single crocheting along the side of the afghan, evenly placing stitches into ends of the rows. When you get to the corner, place 3 stitches in the corner stitch, sc across the end, and continue around the e=next side, placing 3 stitches in each corner.  Join round with a slip stitch,  ch 1 and go around again.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

I try to get the same number of sc’s down each side, so that the finished afghan looks nice and even.  I don’t think one more or less makes much difference, but a few extra stitches down one side as compared with the other side can make the afghan look lop-sided.

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

May Day baby Blanket

This is a relatively easy blanket, which I think should be achievable by an advanced beginner. It takes a little practice to get proficient at the crossed doubles, (mostly just figuring out which is the next stitch to skip, since the crossed Dc pulls the stitches that they have been worked into, close together), but once you get it, they are easy.

This blanket can be adapted to be a full size afghan or it can be made smaller. See end of pattern for some ideas on how to change the size.

Gauge: unimportant

I crochet somewhat loosely. My blanket will be about 42 inches square.

Materials:

WW yarn, (I used 26-28 oz of yarn.)

Crochet hook size K

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Any yarn will work, just use an appropriately sized hook, size will vary with yarn used.

Stitches used:

St-stitch

ch-chain

sc-single crochet

dc-double crochet

Crossed doubles

fpdc-Front post double crochet (instead of working into the top of the dc in the previous row, you work around the post of the stitch from the front of it)

bpdc-Back post double crochet (same as above, but you are working the stich from the back of the post of the dc from the previous row)

Front and back post stitches form what I call “fake cables” or ridges on the front of your work. I like them because they are an easy way to add some texture and interest to crocheted fabric.

Note that all rows will have 120 stitches in them. The afghan is made in one piece. However, I have divided the pattern into sections to make it a little easier to keep track of. Do not end off at the end of a section, keep crocheting onto the next one. The afghan is made as follows:

section 1, section 2, section 1, section 2, section 1.

Pattern:

Chain 121.

Section 1:

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. (120 sc) this is the right side)

Row 2: ch 2 (always counts as first dc), dc in each stitch across.

Row 3: ch 2, bpdc in each st across until you reach the turning ch, dc into top of turning ch

Row 4: ch 2, fpdc in each st across until you reach the turning ch, dc into top of turning ch

Row 5: ch 2, dc in each st across, last stitch will be into the top of the turning ch

Row 6: Ch 2, * skip a stitch, dc into the next stitch. Now, working around the stitch you just made, dc into the skipped stitch. (your crochet hook will be in front of the dc you just made)* (These two stitches made one set of crossed doubles) repeat from * to * until you get to the turning chain. Dc into the top of the turning chain.

Row 7: Repeat row 2, finishing with a dc in the top of the turning chainrow)

Row 8: ch, sc in each st across, finishing with a sc in top of turning ch

Row 9. Repeat row 7. (it’s a DC row)

Row 10: Repeat row 6. (crossed doubles)

Row 11 –13: Repeat rows 7 to 9.

Row 14: Repeat row 6. (crossed doubles)

Row 15: Repeat row 8. (sc row)

Row 16: repeat row 2. (double crochet row)

Row 17: repeat row 3. (bpdc row)

Row 18: repeat row 4 (fpdc row)

Row 19: repeat row 8 (sc row)

Section 2:

Rows 20-32: ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st * repeat from * to * to end of row (end this section with a wrong side row)

The rest of the afghan is repeats of the previous sections.

Rows 33-51: repeat section 1

Row 52 to 64: repeat section 2

Rows 65-81: repeat section 1

Do not cut yarn. Work a sc border all around the blanket, placing 3 sc into each corner and spacing stitches evenly across the ends of the rows. I try to make the same number of stitches in each end, so that the finished blanket turns out nice and even. I finished with a row of reverse HDC. (*HDC in a stitch, ch 1, skip a stitch* and repeat from *to*) worked all around but from left to right, rather than the usual right to left. This makes a nice rope like border.

This blanket can easily be made larger or smaller. Start with an even number of sc in the first row.

To make the blanket narrower, you could subtract some rows from section 2, (making sure to end with a wrong side row), or leave out rows 11 to 13 in section 1. This would give you a panel with two rows of crossed doubles in between the fake cables created by the fpdc's and bpdc's.

To make it wider, you could either add panels, add more rows to section 2, add some extra rows into one of the panels, or make up additions of your own.

I purposely didn’t add any very lacy stitches, because I wanted the finished product to be suitable for either a boys or a girls blanket.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Peek-a-Boo baby Blanket

This is the same stitch pattern as the scarf here: Peek-a-Boo scarf

Pattern requires a multiple of 3stitches,  plus 2.

I used:

Lion Brand Pound of Love (about 12 -13 oz)
a size K hook (6.5 mm)

For row 1, I started with 92 foundation DC,.(alternatively, you could start with 94 chains and then double crochet into the 3rd chain from the hook and in each chain to get a 92 DC) I did 55 rows of the pattern, ending with a row of DC. I did 2 rows of single crochet around the entire blanket to finish it off. My finished blanket is 34 inches square.

Stitch pattern is as follows:

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, (Counts as first dc here and throughout), skip next st, 3 dc in next st, * skip 2 stitches, 3 dc in next st* repeat from * to * until you have 2 st left, skip a stitch and dc into top of last DC

Row 3: ch 3, turn, dc across 

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for the pattern.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.