Nate's Afghan

I noticed that I hit 50 followers a few days ago.  This was a totally amazing thing to me, so I decided that I needed to get to work on another pattern.  I had already made this afghan for a Christmas gift, so I took it out of its wrapping so I could write out the pattern.

I apologize for my lousy photography.  I could blame the gloomy weather, but the truth is that I have a hard time getting good pictures, even when the lighting is perfect.

Nate’s Afghan

Link to Pattern PDF file

I made this as a gift for my son.  I wanted to make a warm, masculine afghan that I could finish quickly.

Afghan is worked holding two strands of yarn together.  You could certainly use a single strand of yarn with a smaller hook, but your afghan would be smaller.

Size:  mine turned out to be about 54 inches square.

Difficulty:  advanced beginner

Materials:

WW yarn in two colors.  I used  approximately 1500 yards of yarn (a little over 4 skeins of  Carons Simply Soft and just under 4 skeins of Bernat Super Value)  I used black and a medium shade of green

Size N hook

Yarn needle

Abbreviations used:

FDC- foundation double crochet

DC- double crochet

Ch-chain

BPDC  back post double crochet

FPDC  front post double crochet

St- stitch

Sc- single crochet

ss-slip stitch

Special stitch:  DC two together:  wrap yarn around hook once, insert into first stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn around hook,pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook, pull yarn through remaining three loops on hook  (if you usually do this stitch differently, do it your own way, it will look fine)

Pattern:

NOTE:  Ch 2 always counts as the first stitch

Every row has 112 stitches

Turn at the end of every row

Ridges created by FPDC and BPDC should always be on the front of the afghan. 

First row:

FDC 112  (or make 112 DC into a chain., I hate working into a chain, so I like to use the FDC method)

To start with a chain, Ch 114 and dc into 3rd ch from the hook and every chain to make 112 DC's in your foundation row.

Row 2 and 3:  Ch 2, dc to end

Row 4:  (begin mesh pattern)

Ch 2, Dc in next 6 stitches, **ch1, skip a stich, DC in next stitch, ch 1 skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC in next st, ch 1, DC in next 8 stitches**  Repeat ** to ** to the end.  (yes the beginning has 7 DC, but you end with 8 DC)  You should have 8 mesh sections in this row, each with 4 ch 1 spaces.

For rows 5 to 10 .  Count the ch 1 spaces as a stitch, and work the DC’s into the space into the space.

Row 5:  Ch 2, Dc in next 8 stitches, including the first ch 1 space of the previous row, ** ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space, Ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into Ch 1 space, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC in next 10 stitches, including last ch 1 space of previous row**,  repeat  to section in between **’s   to end, there will be 8 DC in the last solid section.  You will have 3 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section.

Row 6: Ch 2, DC in next 9 stitches, **ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, DC into next 12 stitches,** repeat stitches between **’s to the end.  The row will end with 9 DC’s.  There will be 2 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section.

Row 7:  Ch 2, DC into next 10 stitches, ** ch 1, skip a stitch, DC into ch 1 space of previous row, ch 1, skip a stitch,  Dc into next 14 stitches**  Repeat stitches between **’s to end.  The row will end with 10 DC’s.  You will have 1 ch space in each mesh section.

Row 8:  repeat row 6 pattern  (you won’t have as many ch 1 spaces to work into, but the pattern is the same)  (2 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 9: Repeat  Row 5  (3 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 10:  repeat row 4  (4 ch 1 spaces in each mesh section)

Row 11:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 12:  Ch 2, BPDC across  (this will create a ridge on the front side of the afghan)

Row 13:  Ch 2, FPDC across

Row 14: Ch 2, DC across

Row 15:  Ch 2, **Skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, Working around stitch just made, DC in skipped stitch**   (crossed double crochet made)  Repeat stitches between **’s to 2^nd last stitch from the end, DC in last stitch

Row 16-18:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row 19:  Ch 2,  **DC two together, ch 1, ** Repeat stitches between **’s to last stitch,  DC in last stitch.

Row20-23:  repeat row 18, using the ch 1 space as a stitch.

Row 24-26:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row: 27:  repeat row 15

Row 28-29:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 30:  Repeat row 12  (BPDC row)

Row 31:  repeat row 13  (FPDC row)

Row 32: ch 2, Dc across

Row 33: repeat row 15  (crossed doubles)

Row 34 and 35:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 36:  repeat row 12 (BPDC row)

Row 37:  repeat row 13 (FPDC row)

Row 38:  ch 2, DC across

Row 39:  repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)

Row 40 to 42:  Ch 2, dc across

Row 43-47:  Repeat rows 19-23

Row 48 - 50:  Ch 2, Dc across

Row 51:  Repeat row 15 (crossed doubles)

Row 52 and 53:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 54:  Repeat row 12 (BPDC row)

Row 55:  Repeat row 13 (FPDC row)

Row 56:  Ch 2, DC across

Row 57 – 63:  repeat rows 4 to 10 (mesh pattern)

Row 64 –66:  Ch 2, Dc across

This finishes the main body of the afghan.  I finished mine with 2 rows of sc worked around the entire thing.  You could quit now if you want. If you plan to add a border, don’t cut the yarn, just continue onto the border.

SC border:  Ch 1, turn, sc across.  Place 3 stitches in the corner and continue single crocheting along the side of the afghan, evenly placing stitches into ends of the rows. When you get to the corner, place 3 stitches in the corner stitch, sc across the end, and continue around the e=next side, placing 3 stitches in each corner.  Join round with a slip stitch,  ch 1 and go around again.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

I try to get the same number of sc’s down each side, so that the finished afghan looks nice and even.  I don’t think one more or less makes much difference, but a few extra stitches down one side as compared with the other side can make the afghan look lop-sided.

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Easy Baby Shoes

Baby Shoes

Difficulty: easy

Size: approx 3 ½ inch length. 

Could easily be made larger by using a larger hook and regular WW yarn

Stitches used:

Ch chain

SS slip stitch

HDC half double crochet

DC double crochet

Special stitches:

I have described the technique I used for these stitches for the benefit of those that are not familiar with them.  My way is very likely not the accepted way, since I just do whatever seems to work for me.  Feel free to do these stitches the way you are used to doing them.  It will work out just fine.

DC 2 together   (yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on shook, yarn over, pull through last 3 loops on hook)

HDC 2 together (yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, and pull through all 5 loops on  hook.)

Materials:

2 colors of light worsted weight yarn  (I used TLC, which is 3 ply. It seems similar to Simply Soft) (the second color is only used for the flower, you could use a button or another embellishment instead)

4 mm (size G) hook 

yarn needle

 

Ch 11.

Sole:

Round 1:

HDC in 3^rd ch from hook, and in next 7 ch.

7 HDC’s in last ch.

Now begin working down other side of the chain, working into the free loops.

HDC in next 7 ch.

5 HDC in last ch, join to top of first HDC.  (27 stitches)

Round 2:

Ch 2, (counts as 1^st stitch), HDC in same space, 2 HDC’s in next stitch, HDC in next 6 st, DC in next 2 stitches, 2 Dc in each of the next 5 stitches, DC in next 2 stitches, HDC in next 7 st,,  2 HDC in each of the next 3 stitches, join with ss to front loop of the top of the beginning ch 2.  (37 stitches)

Begin sides:

Round 1:

Ch 1, Sc in same space, sc in FLO of next 8 stitches, HDC in FLO of next 5 stitches’ DC in FLO of  next 6 stitches, HDC in FLO of next 5 stitches, sc in last 12 stitches, join to first sc with SS.  (37 stitches)

Round 2:

Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 7 stitches, HDc in next 3 stitches, Dc in next st, DC 2 together x 5, DC in next st, HDC in next 3 stitches, sc in last 11 stitches, join with SS to top of first sc.

Round 3:

Ch 1, SC in same space, and in next 10 stitches, HDC in next 3 stitches, DC 2 together x 2, HDC in next 3 stitches, SC in last11 stitches, join to top of first SC with SS

Round 4, Ch 2, HDC in next 10 stitches,   DC 2 together x 4, HDC in next 9 stitches, HDC 2 together, join with SS to top of first Ch 2

Round 5, Ch 1, turn, so that you are working around the shoe from the outside, SS in same space in each stitch around, ( 23 stitches)  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Flower:

Ch 4, join with SS to form a rind.  Ch 1 and make 5 sc in ring. Work over the tail of the yarn.   Join to first SC with SS.

Pull on starting yarn to tighten ring,  Ch 3, join with SS to next sc, (makes a petal),  repeat around so that you have 5 CH 3 petals, join last Ch 3 to first sc.  Fasten off and weave in one end. Use other end to sew flower to front of shoe, before weaving in that end.

You could use a cute button or a tiny bow to embellish the shoe if you prefer.  You can also change the look of the shoe by doing the SS row (last row) in a contrasting color. 

Note:  Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.



PDF Download

Lots more flowers in bloom

My hydrangeas are exceptionally prolific this year.

Here are endless summer (pink) and Annabelle hydrangeas (white). The Annabelle hydrangeas are one of the most carefree flowers I've ever grown. I cut a bunch of them every fall and put them in vases to dry. They turn a beautiful ivory color and I keep them all winter.

A Walk in the Garden

Sweet William
Coreopsis
I can practically smell the sweet scent of this pink peony.

Still more blooms

Lots more things in bloom this week. I didn't get pictures of all of them, but here are a few. More poppies, red ones this time.
A purple iris. these are taller than the yellow ones I have, and have much skinnier leaves. the leaves are almost grass like.They don't multiply as quickly as the yellow ones either.
This is known to me as Jupiter's Beard. I can't remeber what the real name of it is.
A flowering shrub, Wiegella.
The first rose of the season.

More things blooming!

This is a pink variety of lily of the valley. I only planted white ones, but a few years ago, some pink ones appeared among the white ones, and each year there seem to be a few more. They smell just as good as the white ones.


This plant goes by the unlikely name of trailing pink soapwart. The plant is only about 6 inches tall and is literally covered with these tiny pink flowers.

This is some sort of perennial salvia. The flowers are a very clear shade of blue.

This is a rhododendron that we planted when we moved into our house about 30 years ago. It is taller than the house. The color is more pink than this picture shows.

Crockpot Spaghetti Sauce

I've decided to share one of my lazy day recipes today. I don't like to cook much, but I do like to eat well, so over the years I've collected a number of easy but tasty recipes. This is one I made up myself, and its been very well received. This makes quite a lot of sauce and freezes well. It can easily be doubled if your crockpot is big enough. I serve it over whole grain pasta, with a big salad.

Here's what you need:

1 pound Italian sausage
1 medium to large onion, chopped
small amount of olive oil
2 29 oz cans of crushed or diced tomatoes (I prefer crushed or a can of each)
1 29 oz can of tomato sauce
1 6 oz can of tomato paste
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp brown sugar
1 and 1/2 tsp dried minced garlic (or 2 to 3 times that much fresh garlic)
1 and 1/2 tsp each of dried basil, oregano and salt
3/4 tsp dried thyme

Brown sausage and onion in hot olive oil until sausage is browned and onion is soft. Drain well and add to crockpot. Stir in all other ingredients. Cover and cook on low setting for 6 to 7 hours. Discard bay leaves before serving.

Variations and Notes:

I add a 1/2 tsp of dried fennel seeds if I have them, but not everyone likes the pronounced licorice taste of it, so I only add it if it's just my family.

If you want a blander sauce you could use ground beef or turkey instead of Italian sausage, and maybe cut back a bit ont he herbs and other seasonings. If you like your food quite spicy, add some dried crushed red pepper flakes, (up to one tsp). It's been my experience that a little crushed red pepper goes a long ways!

If you want to use fresh herbs, you will need two to three times the amount of dried herbs. You can use two 15 oz cans of tomato product in place of each 29 oz can.
I've never tried this next one, but I would think that 2 or three tsp of commercial Italian seasoning could substitute for the oregano, basil and thyme.

I sometimes add a shredded carrot or some shredded zucchini to the sauce to give my family a few more veggies in their diets. Mushrooms and green peppers, (I'd cook the green pepper with the onions and sausage), would also be good, but the picky eaters around here won't eat them.