Textured Stripes Purse

Textured Stripes Purse

This purse is worked in rounds. The different stitches used in the various rounds result in monotone stripes appearing because the stitches are a different texture. This purse can be made to be a cross body bag, a shoulder bag, or a handbag. It can easily be made shorter, and even smaller in diameter, by decreasing the beginning chain by multiples of 3.

Materials:

Nylon Crochet yarn in taupe and black (I used a little over one spool of taupe and a smaller amount of black)
G hook
Stitch markers
2 D rings
Large button for closure
Tapestry needle
Fabric for lining, basic sewing supplies (optional)

This pattern will work with any yarn, used with appropriate hook.

Gauge: not important, finished size may vary depending on yarn and hook used. The body of my bag is about 10 inches by 10 inches

Stitches used:
Ch (chain)
Sc (single crochet)
Ss (slip stitch)
Dc (double crochet)
St (stitch)
FLO (front loop only)

Notes: mark the first sc of each round just to make it easier to see where you started. Each row will be joined to it’s beginning st with a ss.

Pattern:

Ch 31

Bottom of bag:
Round 1: sc in second ch from hook (mark this stitch), sc in each ch across.(30 sc), place 1 extra sc in last ch, sc across other side of chain. Place 1 extra sc in last ch, join with ss to beginning sc.

Round 2: ch 1, sc in each sc, around, placing 3 sc in marked sc and 3 sc in last sc before joining. Join to 1^st sc of round with ss. (66 sc)

Round 3: repeat round 2, placing 3sc in each end to make a smooth turn. (70 sc)

Round 4: repeat round 3 (74 sc)

Round 5: repeat round 3 (78 sc)

If your stitch count is off, don’t worry. You will need a multiple of 3 to make the pattern work out, but the pattern doesn’t start until round 16, so you can add or subtract a stitch or two to make it work. It won’t show on the finished project.

Begin sides:

Round 6: Sc around in FLO of each stitch (78 sc.) Join with ss in beginning sc.
Round 7 – 11: sc around, join with ss in beginning sc.

Join black.

Round 12 and 13: Repeat round 7.

Join taupe.

Round 14: Repeat round 7.

Round 15: Ch 3, (counts as DC), dc in same st, 1 dc in next st, sc in next st, +2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, sc in next st+ repeat from + to + around. Join with ss in top of beginning ch 3.

Round 16: Ch 1, sc in top of each of the next 2 dc, sc in sc, +sc next 2 dc together, sc in next dc, sc in sc+ repeat from + to + around, join with ss in top of first sc. (78 sc)

Round 17: Repeat round 7

Round 18-20: Repeat rounds 15 to 17.

Rounds 21-23: Repeat round 7. (78 sc)

Round 24: ch 1, sc in same st, + dc in next st, sc in next st + around, end with a dc in last st. Join with ss in top of first sc.

Round 25: ch 3, +sc in next st, dc in next st, + repeat from + to + around, end with sc in last st, join to top of beginning ch 3 with a ss

Round 26-29: Repeat round 24 and 25

Round 30 –38: Repeat round 7. (78 sc)

Round 34-39: repeat rounds 15 to 17 twice.

Rounds 40-41: repeat round 7. (78 sc)

Join black.

Round 42-43. repeat round 7 (78 sc)

Join taupe.

Round 44 and 45: sc around (78 sc)

Round 46: Mark the middle of the front and the back of the purse.

Sc to the marked middle back st, and into the marked stitch,. ch 3, sc into the 2^nd and 3^rd ch from the hook, ss into the side of the last sc you made on the main part of the purse, (you have formed a tab to sew the button onto), then continue to sc in each st around until you get to one stitch before the marker that marks the middle of the front part of the purse. Ch 2, skip the 3 stitches at center front, (this will form a button-hole) continue to sc around until you get to where you started the round. Join with a ss to the beginning sc.

Fasten off.

Begin working the side shapes for the handles.

Mark the stitch on both outside edges of the bag.

Working from the wrong side of the bag, join taupe to the 5^th stitch before the marked side stitch.

Row 1: sc in that stitch and in the next 10 stitches. You have stitched 5 stitches on either side of the marked stitch and in the marked stitch (11 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across (11 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, sc in first st, sc 2 together, sc in next 5 stitches, sc 2 together, sc in last st

( 9 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across (9 st)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sc 2 together, sc in next 3, sc 2 together, sc in last st. (7 sc)

Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across (7 st))

Row 7: Ch1 , turn, sc in first st, sc 2 together, sc in next st, sc 2 together, sc in last st (5 sc)

Row 8: sc across (5 st)

Fasten off.

Repeat for other side.

Join black with a ss and sc around the entire bag, placing one sc in the sides of each of the rows of the raised sides, and one sc in each st around. Work the sc for the button hole around the chain rather than into the chain.

Handles;

Using taupe, make a chain the length that you want the handles to be. Remember that the handles will stretch some.

Row 1: Sc into the second ch from the hook and sc to the end.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn and sc across again. Fasten off.

Join black with a ss in the first sc of one of the long sides of the handle and sc across. Fasten off. Repeat for the other side.

To assemble.

Attach a D-ring to each side of the purse body, by folding over the side tabs and sewing them down over the flat part of the D ring.

Attach handles to D ring using same method.

Sew button to center of button tab.

I made a lining by simply measuring the bag and cutting two rectangle to fit (plus a little extra for seam allowance). I sewed up 3 sides of the rectangle and hemmed the open side. I then hand sewed the lining into the bag. I added a pocket to my lining before I sewed the rectangles together.

Here is a picture of the bag partially finished. It shows the stripes better:

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

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Snowy Day Moebius Neckwarmer/Hood

Snowy Day Moebius Neckwarmer/Hood

I like the concept of a moebius strip, kind of a circle without an end, so a few years ago I made a moebius shawl. I started to make a moebius scarf this year, and it turned into this.

This pattern will work with any hook size and yarn.

I used 2 skeins of Red Heart Soft yarn and a J hook.

Stitches used:

Ch (chain)

Sc (single crochet)

Dc (double crochet)

Pattern:

Chain an even number of stitches. The chain should fit around your face loosely if you want to use it as a hood as well.(My chain was about 32 inches long.) If you just want a neck warmer, make a chain that fits comfortably over your head, or even larger if you want a looser cowl.

Join the ends of the chain together with a ss, being careful not to twist the chain.

Row 1: Chain 3, sc in same chain as joining, skip a stitch, + dc, sc both in next chain, skip a chain+ repeat from + to+ until you get back to where you started. Last chain should be unworked. Skip that chain and turn the work so that you can continue the pattern in the other side of the foundation chain. Continue in pattern +dc, sc both in same chain, skip a chain+ until you get back to the first ch 3. You should have one chain left unworked at the end. Skip that chain and join with a ss to the beginning ch 3.

You have worked one row, but it will look like you have done two rows because you have worked into both sides of the foundation chain. The turn creates the twist. After a few rounds you should clearly see a twist developing, although it should be apparent right away.

Row 2 and following: Ch 3 and turn. (you will be working in the opposite direction from the last row.) sc in same stitch as beginning ch 3, skip a stitch, +dc, sc both into next stitch, skip a stitch+ repeat from + to + until you get back to beginning ch 3. Join to top of ch 3 with a ss. Again you have worked around both sides of the neckwarmer.

Turn and work in the opposite direction for each row. All stitches are worked into the DC’s of the previous row, and the sc’s are always skipped.

Continue with row 2 until the neckwarmer is the size you want it to be. You can make this just big enough to be a neck warmer or you can make it longer and pull it up over your head as a hood.

I finished mine with a row of single crochet, but this is optional.

My 20 year old daughter suggested that this would make a nice accessory worn with a sweater.

If you made this larger it would work as a cowl, or still larger and it could be a shawl or capelet.

You can make this with other stitch patterns, as long as they are reversible. Half of your stitches will be upside down in the finished item. Some stitch patterns won’t require you to turn your work at the end of every row, and you can just keep working in the same direction.

For this fit, I started with a chain about 32 inches long, approximately 170 chains the way I crochet. Mine is about 14 inches in height, which is where I ran out of yarn. If you just want it for a scarf, 7 inches is ample.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell one or two items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Peek-a-Boo baby Blanket

This is the same stitch pattern as the scarf here: Peek-a-Boo scarf

Pattern requires a multiple of 3stitches,  plus 2.

I used:

Lion Brand Pound of Love (about 12 -13 oz)
a size K hook (6.5 mm)

For row 1, I started with 92 foundation DC,.(alternatively, you could start with 94 chains and then double crochet into the 3rd chain from the hook and in each chain to get a 92 DC) I did 55 rows of the pattern, ending with a row of DC. I did 2 rows of single crochet around the entire blanket to finish it off. My finished blanket is 34 inches square.

Stitch pattern is as follows:

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, (Counts as first dc here and throughout), skip next st, 3 dc in next st, * skip 2 stitches, 3 dc in next st* repeat from * to * until you have 2 st left, skip a stitch and dc into top of last DC

Row 3: ch 3, turn, dc across 

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for the pattern.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Peek-a-Boo Hat and Scarf Set

Fits 4-6 year old

Hat:

Finished size: 18 inches around at cuff, 7 inches from bottom of cuff to crown.

This hat is stretchy and can easily be made larger by using a larger hook. It can also be made taller by repeating row 7.

Materials:

2 ½ 0z Lion brand Pound of Love

H (5.0 mm) hook

Stitches:

Ch (chain)

Dc (double crochet)

Ss (slip stitch)

FPDC Front post double crochet

Hat is worked in rounds, starting at top.

Chain 4, join to first chain with a ss to form a ring,

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 9 dc in ring, join to top of first ch 3 with ss (10 stitches)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same stitch, dc in each stitch around, join to top of first ch 3 with ss (20 stitches) You are increasing in each stitch

Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in next stitch, * dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch* repeat from * to * around, join to top of first ch 3 with ss (30 stitches) You are increasing in every other stitch.

Round 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around, join to top of beginning ch 3 with ss (40 stitches) You are increasing in every third stitch.

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around, join with ss in top of beginning ch 3. (50 stitches) You are increasing in every fourth stitch

Round 6: Ch 3, dc in next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next 4 stitches, 2 dc in next st*, repeat from * to * around, join in top of beginning ch 3 with ss (60 stitches) You are increasing in every fifth stitch.

Round 7: Ch 3, Dc in each st around, join to top of beginning ch 3 with ss (60 stitches)

Round 8: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, skip 2 stitches, *3 dc in next st, skip next 2 stitches* repeat from * to * around, ending with sk 2 stitches, join to top of beginning ch 3 with ss

Round 9-13: repeat rows 7 and 8, ending with row 7.

Row 14: ch 3 , FPDC around post of next st, * dc in next st, FPDC around post of next st* repeat from * to * around, ending with FPDC around post of last st. , Join with ss to top of beginning ch 3.

Round 15: ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Scarf:

Finished size: mine is 5 inches wide by 54 inches long

Scarf can be made any size by adjusting starting chain and number of rows

Pattern requires multiple of 3 stitches plus 2

Materials:

Lion brand Pound of Love (amount depends on size)

J (6.0mm) hook

Gauge: unimportant

Stitches used:

FDC (Foundation double crochet) (or alternatively you could make a chain and dc into it)

Sc (single crochet)

Dc (double crochet)

Ch (chain)

Row 1: FDC 158 stitches (or ch 160 st, dc into 3^rd ch from hook and into each chain for total of 158 dc)

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, (Counts as first dc here and throughout), skip next st, 3 dc in next st, * skip 2 stitches, 3 dc in next st* repeat from * to * until you have 2 st left, skip a stitch and dc into top of last DC

Row 3: ch 3, turn, dc across (158 st)

Row 4-7: Repeat rows 2 and 3, ending with row 3

Do not fasten off: Work edging:

*(sc, ch1, sc) in corner, place 2 sc in end of each row of short end of scarf, (sc,ch1,sc) in corner, sc in each stitch of long side of scarf* repeat from * to * once more, join to beginning sc with ss. Fasten off and work in ends.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Double Flower Bookmark

Supplies:

Size 3 thread

C hook

Stitches used:

Hdc (half double crochet)

DC (double crochet)

Ss (slip stitch)

SC (single crochet)

Ch (chain)

Gauge: doesn’t apply. You can use whatever thread and hook you wish. The finished bookmark may be a little smaller or larger

Directions:

Bottom motif:

Chain 4, join with ss to form a ring.

Round 1: ch 1, (all following stitches are worked into the ring formed by the chain 4 loop), **sc, ch 3** repeat from ** to ** 5 more times, join to beginning sc

(motif is finished) You should have 6 chain 3 loops.

Next ch 60 ( for bookmark part) Try to chain fairly tightly and evenly. This part can be made longer or shorter to make the length you want.

Begin top motif:

SS into 4^th chain from hook to form a ring.

Round 1: Repeat round 1 of bottom motif.

Round 2: SS to first chain 3 loop. Into each chain 3 loop work the following: SC, HDC, 2 DC, hdc, sc. (When you get to where the chain joins the motif, just work across the front of it.) to end ss into the first sc of the round.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.

Super Simple Crocheted Snowflake

This snowflake is very easy and can be worked up in just a few minutes. It is shaped somewhat like a 6 sided star.

I used Lustersheen and a size C hook. (I couldn’t find any white size 3 thread, which is what I wanted to try this with.)

Stitches used:

Ch (chain)

Dc (double crochet)

Sc (single crochet)

Ss (slip stitch)

Directions:

Chain 4, join with ss to form a ring.

Round 1:

Ch5, (counts as DC and ch 2) ** 2 dc into ring, ch 2**, repeat from ** to ** 4 more times, Dc into ring, join to 3^rd ch of beginning chain. You should have 6 chain 2 spaces.

Round 2:

Ch 3 (counts as first Dc), dc into next dc, ** ch 2, Dc into next ch 2 space, ch 2, DC in each of the next 2 DC**, repeat from ** to ** 4 more times, ch 2, join to top of beginning ch 3. (you should have 12 ch 2 spaces)

Round 3:

Ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc into next DC, ** sc into next ch 2 space, ch 5, sc into next ch 2 space, sc into next 2 dc** repeat from ** to ** 4 more times, sc into next ch 2 space, ch 5, sc into last ch 2 space, join with ss into top of beginning sc (you should have 6 ch 5 spaces)

Round 4:

**Ss to ch 5 space,

Into the chain 5 space work the following stitches:

Sc, ch 2, sc, ch 3, sc, ch 4, sc, ch3, sc ch2, sc**

Repeat around. Join to beginning ss and fasen off.

Shape and block as desired.

Pattern is untested, except by myself. Please let me know if something is unclear, or you find a mistake.
You may sell items made from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or publish it anywhere else. Please link to the pattern if you post a picture elsewhere.